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Topics - Kokamo

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1
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / EC carb on modded Intek?
« on: October 07, 2016, 10:36:50 am »
Having some issues with a factory Nikki carb that has been modified by EC. From what I see, it has been bored, ported and the main jets removed while an adjustable needle has been fitted to the (metal) bowl. The thing idles good (fairly rich, but not adjustable), always runs fantastic out of the corner under WOT......most of the time but not always around the middle of the strait, it will bang out and start running really bad around 5K (turning a little over 6K)....I know it could be rich or lean, but it won't clear up either way I make a high speed screw adjustment. I pull the plugs and one side looks good, but the other is charcoal. I change plugs just to run a heat or race and it'll run good for 5 laps and then start missing again due to a fouled plug. Pull plugs and the same thing, but on opposite cylinders. I've cleaned the carb and find no obstructions or bad gaskets. I know these carbs and I know what is common gaskets or issues, but I have made sure those issues aren't present.   

So, I figure I should be done with this carb and just upgrade....anyone use the ECH203-1 carb from EC? I see that it has an adjustable idle circuit and I like that part. I also like the ability to change jets, but hate the amount of trouble it would take to make a jet change....especially if it were at the track.

A bit of background....I have been studying and working with carbs for well over 15 years and I know how they work, but I work on stock carbs, not modded or performance units such as this.

A bit about the motor. 93 octane GASOLINE, precision cam, ARC rods, ARC FW, stock model 40 heads, stock air filter system with K&N filter, otherwise completely stock.

Any advice?

Thanks,

~Joe

2
Racing Mower Builds / BRAND NEW 2016 Cub Cadet B/P build...
« on: September 02, 2016, 01:42:25 am »
Well, I figured I'd post up the build of this mower. I'm a long time follower of this forum and I finally bit the bullet and built a machine of my own from learning all the tips and tricks of the many wonderful people here on Heymow. I have a long history of many builds from a crazy 1200cc street bike powered 4 wheeler, to drag cars, classic show cars and even a custom 4-wheel drive Chevy Nova! It's been a few years since I built anything and I had an itch....mower racing is something I've been wanting to do since the early 2000's, so....I did lots of research and I started with a BRAND NEW machine off the showroom floor. I kinda wanna keep it stock-ish looking because it has good potential to be a big part of advertisement for my outdoor power and repair (I'm a Cub Cadet and MTD dealer) A 2016 Cub Cadet XT2 with a Kawasaki 18hp twin. I don't have current plans for the motor just yet as I can't find performance parts support for it, but I do hope there will be one day....I'll just set that motor asside until I find a good use for it.

On to the build. This is what I started out with....brand spankin' new.....I don't think I even turned the blades on....



Pre tear down pic...



Took about an hour to tear it down. It's so nice to not have rusty bolts and greasy crap to deal with....





From here, I have a long way to get to that 4" limit....



Bare frame to start with. It looks a bit narrow but it's a full 13" across...



Got the front axle mount cut out and ready for an EC style setup....



Nice frame to work with....C channel frame isn't as rigid as you'd think tho. It's is pretty heavy gauge but with all the upper and lower cross braces from the factory removed, it's pretty darn flimsy....



Welded everything I thought would be ideal to have a weld on it. The engine plate was spot welded in only 4 places!  :dunno:





Once all welded up, I took some flat plate and welded it up on the inside of the frame to "box" in the frame....



Much stiffer now!!






Until next time!

~Joe

3
Coffee Shop / Choosing spark plug type & heat range?
« on: August 15, 2016, 07:38:36 pm »
Well, I know there are plenty of manufacturer "recommended" type and heat range, but how does one come up with such for a modified small engine? I personally have a Briggs 44 twin and Briggs 33 single....either of which I have no clue how to choose a heat range, let alone the type (copper, platinum, iridium).

I do know what hot or cold plug ranges are utilized in, however, either of the two engines I have are technically built pretty much to their own limit, but they aren't technically as radical as big HP street engines. Also, I'm limited to pump gas and this does make a factor.

I'm just thinking a medium heat to hot plug would be fine, but that's just a guess, but I'm still not sure which will benefit most.....and this is why I'm here asking for advice.

Thanks for any thoughts,

~Joe

4
Driveline / 700 close ratio gearing?
« on: July 28, 2016, 11:37:23 am »
What would be the next 2 closest possible gear ratios above the 25/25 set? My tans has the 25/25 in 3rd and I'd like to have the availability of simply switching gears for longer tracks instead of changing sprockets and chains.

Has this been done before....surely it has.

Setup is a BP class, built Intek twin, 8/5 pulley, BoNewCo trans (15/35-1st...23/27-2nd...25/25-3rd...no 4th or 5th), 15/44 sprockets and a 49" rollout....6400ish rpm. The sprocket setup is a baseline for now that hasn't been tested (5.75:1 final)....I'm thinking it'll be a little tall, but I can change it easy.

Thanks

~Joe

5
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / 44 Intek Oil Pressure?
« on: July 20, 2016, 09:55:12 am »
Just curious of what I should be seeing for oil pressure on my 44. I had the same gauge hooked up to a Honda GX670 (stock) and was getting 50-60psi cold. This Intek is showing around 22ish cold. Should I be concerned?

I'm using 10-30 Mobile One oil and a K&N oil filter.

Thanks,

~Joe

6
***Picture request***

Well, I'm at that point of the build where I'm fabbing up the front & rear brakes on this silly money munching BP build. I have 2 MCP red anodized master cyl's . My problem is space....I don't have much room inside the frame for a pair of MC's, there's enough room for two, but not much and they can't be spaced out by much at all. When using a brake bias made for karts (Righetti - KB060N), what would the spacing be on the two master's? If it's much more than 1/4" or so, then I will have to do something different. I've looked all over this forum and google isn't much help either. Hopefully someone has a similar setup that can snap a pic for me.

Also, what about a remote adjuster like you see on full size cars? I suppose those can be rigged up. Just haven't seen one on a mower setup. The bias will be down under the pan and will not be very easily accessible.

Thanks for any help,

~Joe

7
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Briggs 44 big valves?
« on: June 17, 2016, 11:06:57 am »
So I've searched this site from top to bottom and I'm still trying to find where I can get my hands on a set of big valves for my 44 Intek. Maybe I just don't know what to get on the EC site as I haven't really seen a book about how to build a hot-rod Intek  :lol:

Anyone have anything they'd like to share for a part number of the big intake and exhaust valves and seats? Do the EC valves work with the stock-aftermarket style retainers/locks?

I understand they came from a Saturn, but I don't have much more info.

Thanks,

~Joe

8
Chassis / Axle Geometry
« on: April 13, 2016, 09:42:44 am »
Have a question about the geometry on the EC axle. I've read all of George's post on how the EC axle works but one thing I didn't come across (or I must have missed it), was what the rearward lean of the top of the axle beam does. The B/P mower I recently purchased has this built into the setup....not sure if it's intended or not. If it is, I'd like to know what the intention is with it. The top of the axle beam looks to be slanted approx 5ish degrees toward the rear of the mower. I can get pictures if requested.

On another note, is the steering supposed to self center when you let go of the wheel? This thing pulls like mad to the right, but it all looks correct...no noticeable toe or camber....I haven't checked caster yet tho.

Thanks for any help,

~Joe

9
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / When to "freshen up" your motor?
« on: April 11, 2016, 01:14:10 pm »
Have a question fellas....I recently purchased a complete B/P mower that has approx 5 races and 3ish hours on the entire machine including the motor.

Motor is an Intek 44, ARC rods/pistons, 40ci heads shaved/ported, custom cam, dom carb, etc..... Has LOADS of power and runs extremely well. I was just wondering what scheduled maintenance is for these little motors. I know our V8 race motors we build are taken apart every year for a complete once over regardless if it's running good or not.

Thanks,

~Joe

10
Driveline / Drive pullies...Aluminum vs. steel...
« on: March 19, 2016, 07:44:51 pm »
Was curious if there was an advantage in belt grip by running one or the other. Steel or aluminum or cast? I'm thinking cast would be much heavier to turn, thus more rotating mass.

Just a little question running thru my head at the moment.

~Joe

11
Tires / Soooo....tire/wheel issue....
« on: March 11, 2016, 09:44:18 pm »
Afternoon everyone. New guy here trying to learn. I just started my first build with a brand spankin' new mower and it will be for the 2017 season....I ran into a little issue by mistake, I'll explain....

So, I talked with George H. via PM and he recommended 13x6.5x6 tires on a 6-1/4" wide wheel. So, I ordered a pair of turf masters and accidentally ordered a pair of 8-1/4"x6 wheels....my mistake, I'll deal with it. However, I saw that George had used this tire/wheel combo (13x6.5x6 on a 8.25x6 wheel) but never read about how it performed.

I was curious if this would be a decent front wheel/tire combo (with EC front axle kit) for a beginner driver for the USLMRA ruled IMOW class? Keep in mind, I've done my fair share of auto road, track and autocross racing, so it shouldn't be something exactly "new", but more different.

On a totally unrelated note, how would one get such a skinny tire on such a wide wheel?  :confused:

Also, does anyone have a picture of this combo? Would like to see it before I try it out and not be able to send back these wheels.

Thanks for any help,

~Joe

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