Heymow - Lawnmower Racing Forum
Mower Building / Setup Help => Project Builds => Racing Mower Builds => Topic started by: George Herrin on February 25, 2008, 01:53:46 am
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here is what roughly 4 and a half hours resulted in. I am so behind on some of my stuff that after the clinic Larry and Jeannie came over spent the night and help me out. So I couldn't re-fuse the offer and we tackled it. This is a combo of Jeannie's pro-x and my Pro-x. Jeannie drives it locally and I will drive it Nationally. Gonna be a rocket. Its an MTD walkthru chassis Very Light and 4 inches off the ground. Burris k21 grooved tires all the way around. Simulated deck will serve for where the feet will actually go. Gonna pop rivet aluminum to the bottom of the frame work. Centrifugal clutch with pulley then a right angle box under the fender. This thing is LOW LOW LOW. Did I say low. I like it so much gonna make a sportsman chassis with another I have.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010060.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010060.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010063.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010063.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010064-1.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010064-1.jpg)
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Are you bringing it to Maxville George?
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I hope so If I pull it off amoung the customer work I am still working hard to catch up on it won't be painted. Will just have to see.
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George if i may ask this question.What made you use an MTD chassis instead of something smaller.
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I like doing things other do not, mainly because I ain't like most others. I think outside the box or try too. You do not have to look like a gorilla riding a golf ball to be competitive. Couple years back I ran a F/X on the US circut using a full sized box frame MTD and finished 4th in points that year. It finished top every race it ran beating the likes of Mike Miller Kevin Penne and Chuck Miller on some tracks. I fit better on a larger frame, it feels better, it handles better, (longer wheel base) and the average spectatot can relate to it more so thanthe itty bitty huffy style chassis which most have never seen. Its as light as any Huffy I have built so far. Only thing left is gear box battery brakes and motor. As it sits in the picture above I can lift it by my self. I won't once its finsihed but the point is a competitive pro-X can be built using a larger chassis.
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George,I was wondering how much clearance from the ground will your crank be? It just made me wonder I was thinking we in Kansas have a 6 inch frame rule and I was thinking of insetting my engine and batt to lower the engine and keep me from cutting up the hood on the lawnflite . then build the frame a little stronger.I havent herd back from them yet to know if I can do that.But this year they have a paved kart trak for the home track and we will have to run kart tires.On the briggs twin the crank sets lower then the frame,Mabie trim some off of the crank and redrill and tap it? this would be on the modified.for now just an idea.what do you think?
Larry L
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Havn't checked that yet. I will do exhibitions on pavement but I will not race on it. Especisially with a frame 6" off the ground. Road rash hurts....
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Good Gracious That thing is BADDDDDDD!!!!!!!! :maxevil: Who needs paint it looks mean as it sits!!! :maxevil: How far is the frame off the ground?
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41/4 sitting on it in the rear and 4" on the front. I love the look. Throw some turf masters on it and a belt clutch and tranny its a legal chassis for any class in ARMA except super Stock. It does look wicked fast just sitting there. We even just discussed shooting it with clear and leaving it like it is except painting the the frame.
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It does look cool!! what a stance.only thing that would look better is if you gave me the rims and tires :woo: But I know thats not going to happen.I can George now :noplease: .... :lol:
oops can see George now :doh:
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Sorry to cross you George.I didnt mean it as trying to be smart or to get on your nerves i was just curious.And i wasnt saying that i dont like it, it is truly a piece of art that will dominate all.
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Sorry to cross you George.I didnt mean it as trying to be smart or to get on your nerves i was just curious.And i wasnt saying that i dont like it, it is truly a piece of art that will dominate all.
Not sure why you feel you got on my nerves, you asked a question and I answered it truthfully. Didn't bother me upeset me or get on my nerves. Sorry I you felt I was bothered. I wasn't.
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I was just curious,you are saying it is very low yet it is still 4"ride height,do you mean that the seat is lower because of the smaller tires? I really like it and think that I will have to build one like it as well.
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The top of dash is only about a 1-1/2 above the knee cap, The top of fenders are below the knee by at least 2 inches, I dropped the nose to give er a bit of rake. Yes with the smaller tires it lower even though the frame is 4 inches off the ground. You see I cut a couple inches off the bottom rear Sub frame i.e. hitch squaring it with the rest of the frame so it sits level. Which drops the whole stance dramatically.
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That looks sweet very nice stance. What brand and model of clutch do you run. What size of pulley do you run on you clutch and 90 degree box. Im going to have to build one, but i will have to wait till 09. I need to focus on getting my SP to Run up top first. Thanks
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premier clutch 3500 engagement, 5 inch pulley's.
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George, is that the clutch you were talking about before where you welded a pulley on to it, were did you get it, thanks
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Yes its one. I have run a noram titan and the premier. We weld a pulley to them. The premier we have at ec. Well we have one more. comes with different springs for different engagement rpms 150.00. Adding a pulley is extra.
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I might have to go with one of those PM me with a price for the clutch and a pulley welded on, thanks
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Awesome build as usual George.
I am glad someone finally built one of these.
I have seen several guys pass on this chassis for the box frame mtd or even other models.
If you don't mind, can you post a picture of how you did the frame rails on this one?
The reason I ask is, if I remember right this is not a typical MTD the frame/pan is tapered/narrowed at the front right?
It would help lots of guys, that can get thier hands on one of these, to see how you put in the frame rails and front axle on this type of mower.
Thanks George.
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We have a guy in our group running with a frame like yours. It seems to do rather well and has a somewhat smaller size to start with. I also went with a Premier clutch. They seem to be pretty well built. We'll see how it holds up.
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if you run a angle box,with the belt clutch 5 inch pulley what would you run on the angle for pulley size and sprocket set up with 5 inch tire in back 11 inch x 6 wide thanks
my angle box is 2.1 sorry forgot that thanks
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my angle box is 1 to 1 I run 5 inch pulleys keeping it 1 to 1 then sprocket wise that really depends on motor weight of driver tires track condition and setup. Generally generally in the 5.5 to 1 range
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What size chain will you run on this mower. Will you have to notch the back of your frame out for your rear sprocket. Im just sitting back taking notes.
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Yup will have to cut the frame out. #40 chain
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hey george what kind/brand of right angle gearbox do you run?? and how much are they and where can I find one??
thanks-Cody :stickdance:
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Hey George, that is the exact same frame I use on my WOO outlaw. I'm not sure there is a better frame out there at the moment. That machine of yours looks wild, I love the looks of the walkthru. Like you said earlier, there is no reason why one of these chassis's can't be as light as a huffy style chassis by the time you get them race ready. Frame for frame they are the same weight as any huffy frame. The longer wheelbase makes them handle the big hp engines so much better. Ryan
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Yes I know its what drove me to use it. I have one more I will be building and gonna slap a twin on it. We not allowed to go that low!!!! But it sure is a sweet ride. I was shocked at how light it is. And it simply Looks GOOD!!!
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hey george what kind/brand of right angle gearbox do you run?? and how much are they and where can I find one??
thanks-Cody :stickdance:
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Not sure where the post went I did answer BUT its a peerless 1000 series off a snow blower. Had it awhile not sure where I got it.
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George, with the steering wheel that close to the dash, are you still going to mount your digatron to it, or somewhere else? Just curious. Plus I know you won't be runnin without a tach!
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Actually its just sitting there. And no it won't run without a tach. I am not going to mount it in the wheel. I flipped the supersportsman last year twice and damaged my tach so after Talladega its coming out of the wheel. Gonna find a safer place.. Not sure where that is gonna be yet.
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In an earlier reply you said it was legal for every division except for super stock. Why would it not be legal??????
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In an earlier reply you said it was legal for every division except for super stock. Why would it not be legal??????
Probably the wheelbase.You can change the wheelbase in all the other classes according ro the rule of that class.However in super stock the rules clearly states, "Factory Stock".
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What I meant was with a simple change of tires it could be legal in all other ARMA classes except Super Stock and thats because super Stock must run 16 inch rear wheels. As far as chassis legal for the class yup build it with 16 inch tires and you have a super stock.
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(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010154.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010154.jpg)
Dash/steering column support all tubing is thin wall 3/4 tubing
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010155.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010155.jpg)
The next 7 pictures are simply different angles of the support tubing under the frame and how I did it.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010155-1.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010155-1.jpg)
Where we come to a change in angle we cut the tubing bent it and welded it back to tegther to get it to follow the contour of the chassis.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010156.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010156.jpg)
Is important you start with a straight chassis before you do all this work.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010157.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010157.jpg)
Close up of rear axle bearing mount and how the tubing was run to accomodate
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010158.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010158.jpg)
rear axle in and total view
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010159.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010159.jpg)
Overall view of chassis stiffening
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010160.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010160.jpg)
steering arm, bottom view of steering
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010161.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010161.jpg)
Ok lots a wrok done and few pictures were taken here is an overall view of the drive train it uses a centrifugal ratech mini cup clutch and 1 to1 gear box
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010162.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010162.jpg)
Clutch has a pulley welded on and the same size on gear box uses a belt tensioning setup basically a clutch system as I use on any other prepared build. Only this ons is not billet.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010163.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010163.jpg)
Close up view of sprocket setup. everything is done here except I have to add the chain tensioner
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010164.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010164.jpg)
this and the next few pictures are a look at it where it sits now.
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010165.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010165.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/th_P1010166.jpg) (http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f232/GeorgeHerrin/P1010166.jpg)
Still have to wire it add the trhottle cable, get a throttle lever for the steering wheel, bleed brakes and finsih the head. The exhaust is done and used a silver ceramic high temp paint o it. Already used this on another exhaust and it doesn't turn colors great stuff. Thats all for now
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I want you fat man,you & me Wilson,NC.I'm gone take all yo candy away,it's a snap with a Snapper. :woo: :woo: :lol: :lol:
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it looks like it has a manual clutch also..or is that to adjust the belt tension?
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If you look closely there is no clutch rod going to the pulley setup just a spring. Its for tension only.
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Hey George I guess you found a place to put the battery? That thing looks tough. are you going to have it in Georgia?
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I know you will take him with that snapper hitch. George has no chance trying to out run the snap :)
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PJ I could forget that motor!!!
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If you look closely there is no clutch rod going to the pulley setup just a spring. Its for tension only.
alright see that now looks good
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Wait no not a good idea, sorry hitch but the snapper may snap in half when that new mowchine SLINGS by you
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Very nice George! I like to see something different like this! Where is the battery located?
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I hope to have it done for GA. BUT not sure. Will try hard to do so.
Dave the Battery is on the left side behind motor in the dash.
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George, I just picked up a mower like this and I want to build it the same as you have in this thread. Did you use the 1 Axle Bearing Kit & Components? What does that cost? Also price on the rear hubs, rims?? Not sure if you sell the RAGB but I will have to get one of those too. Not sure if I will go that route or install the Peerless 700 tranny in this setup. But I know I want the rear to be the same as yours....
Looks like a fun build and a quick one too :D
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Everything on rear is 1 1/4. Non-adjustable bearing cassettes although they can be added anytime. Not sure on exact costs. Will try to get that done up later.
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I don't need adjustable. This one will be for a local race club and will be ran one there... Would the 1" be enough? I will not be pushing it really hard ;)
I am also building the front myself, but want to get the rear done quick. That is why I asked you :D
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I am sure 1" will work but I prefer the 1 1/4 axles freer spinning and better quality.
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OK, I will take your word on it.....
Also, what clutch drive do you have on this build?? I might need one of those too ;)
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centrifugal ratech mini cup
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I saw this thing race and it will FLY !
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Any new pictures of this mower George??
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What you want a picture of its done.
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Just would be nice to see the finished project ;) Also, what size wheels do you have on this mower?
And you never gave me a price on the rear axle setup....
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If you want to price how much parts are for these, check out Acme, EC dist., G-team, or any number of Go-cart supply web sites. It will all depend on the materials you choose. I used 1-1/4" all the way around on mine and the rear wound up being approximately $130. It could be more or less depending on what you use.
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rear axle 1 1/4 40.00
non adjustable cassettes, 16.00 ea
bearings 8.95 ea.
sprocket hub 27.95
rear hubs 3 bolt 18.00 ea.
rear brakes 179.00
Rear tires are 12 x 8 6 on 6x9 rims front are 11 x 5.5 x 6 on 6.5 rims
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George, are you running 3 bolt hubs on the back of this mowchine? If you are what size bolts are you using, 1/4" or 5/16"??
I am wondering how the 3 bolt rubs would hold up on the rear axle....
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I'm not answering for George but He probably has kart hubs on the back. I use them and I know people in lmr racing that use them and as far as I know it has worked out great for them and has worked great for me.
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hey george, just curious, can you get an 8" wheel with the 3-bolt pattern??? Tim,
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yes have one here they are made for mini cups. Not sure of the brand though.....
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George, Sorry Im new to this sport and would like to ask whats the difference between the wheel base on this mower and the shorter version? Its very understandable that a longer wheel base will give a more stable and secure handling.
Also do you have any pics of the finished mower with paint and numbers. :woo:
Chris
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Didn't know there was a chassis as this with a shorter version... Unless you mean like a huffy. I like leg room, and I like the longer wheelbase of the full size chassis privides. And this chassis is very light.
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well.. you need all the room you can get after i just saw that other picture!!!
jokes!!! :lol:
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we need a picture not a belly itcher........lol
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if you dont mind my asking are thay go cart rims and tire on that
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YUP!!!!
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George What size turf masters would you use? We have to run turf type tires at our club.
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6" 13x6.5x6 8" 16x7.5x8
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Maybe I missed it but whats the wheel base George?
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43" If I remember right unaltered. Will have to double check it.
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Ya thinking of making a chassis like that for me 6'1"" 200# dont feel comfortable on my huffy chassis! so thought Id try something different ! but with our short tracks need wheel base around 42-44 so let me know and as always thanks!
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George, Getting ready to order parts and get started with mine! Anything you would do differently? How's it holding up? What clutch do you recommend? Dave
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Dave Call me at work....
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Hey George Are you still running a Centrifugal clutch or have you gone to a two pulley clutch ?
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Centrifugal on the pro-X, I went back to the manual clutch on the Super Modified. Just didn't like it.