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Topics - Toadworks

Pages: [1] 2
1
Coffee Shop / Happy Easter!
« on: April 08, 2012, 05:01:43 PM »
John 3:16 For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life. Plain and simple, No eggs, no chocolate bunnies, no marshmellow peeps, Just Jesus.

Happy Easter from Afghanistan!

Todd

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Admin Announcements / How to Search
« on: March 08, 2012, 04:24:40 PM »
May I add another link to MUST READ list.

http://www.heymow.com/index.php?action=help;page=searching

Directions on how to get the most out of the search feature.

3
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Rollin' on Skates, Thrust Bearing Questions.
« on: March 03, 2012, 06:14:17 PM »
When I get home from Afghanistan I will be building some new motors for USLMRA CP class. Actually a whole new machine, a twin to my current CP. Then a mild rebuild of the old CP with a new power plant to run a different, yet decided on, class. So I have been creating my build/purchase sheet and doing even more research into the many different parts and pieces of Briggs motors. (I have a 28 that runs pretty dang good right now) For my new build, I'll be using non-AVS 31's. (Looking for good motors now, hint, hint $$ ). Any who, I can't seem to come up with any real information about thrust bearings.

Anyone care to share a part number for a crankshaft bearing?
Do you run thrust washers to act as a race?
Since the crankshaft tends to rise as RPM increases do you 'roller' both ends? I'm thinking I want to create a 'full roller' and have both ends 'on skates' with very small end play numbers.
Maybe someone has a part number for camshaft thrust bearing too? Or maybe there isn't enough room to add the rollers since the bearing would have to be between the oil slinger plate and the bottom of the cam shaft gear. What about boring the boss and using a needle bearing? Any room for that? If I remember, the 28 doesn't look like there would be enough boss to bore it out and I would think the 31 pan is gonna be the same. So I assume you would trim the fat from the width of the gear and use a washer to have a bearing surface.

Being overseas, I don't have stuff available to measure so I'm kinda at a loss there. I'm just building the motors on paper for now. Then I'll be ordering parts as I get nearer to my going home date. I'd like to have it planned and have all the right parts in hand the day I get home. Really missing the hobby.

If I could get just a little nudge in the right direction for the parts, I can probably figure out the rest.

***Forgot a question***

Is it worth the $$ and effort to roll it?

4
Coffee Shop / New Job, New Adventures = No 2011-2012 Season for Me
« on: May 18, 2011, 08:13:21 PM »
I finished the season first place in points for CP with the Florida Lawnracing Association, I have to admit more by default than by 'earning' it. But still mine to claim. Had a great year, started a new club, the Space Coast Sod Slingers, with a great friend and fellow lawn mower junkie Tom Knoebel. Went to countless events such as car shows and Cub Scout Derbies just to promote the greatest motor-sport ever. And, just when things are getting going, BAM that job offer I have been waiting on comes in. The job will take me away from racing for a while, so it is with sadness, I will be filling the tank with Sta-bil, blocking up and covering up the machines, until I return some time from now. If I could only figure out how to get ARMA and USLMRA to host some USO tours overseas... Anyway I won't be on much as access to the net will be limited in my near future. But I will return, someday. You may be interested to know more about when, where and how, but an open forum is not a good place to share that information. And so it is with government contracts. I am proud to serve and do my part to keep our troops safe and secure and I look forward to hanging out and working with them.

I want to make public that Charles Butcher, his wife Evelyn (hope I spelled that right), do a great job of keeping Florida Lawnracing a top club to be part of. The racers there are the best any one could know, I'll surely miss this great family.

To the folks in the south, Grasscar. Keep on keepin' on! I know that we can be the role models for the entire country by sharing our clubs and spending time with each other. The lines between ARMA and the USLMRA will start to blur, be the leaders and set the example.

To The fine folks at Hurricane Speedway. Thanks for believing in us, and I know Tom is looking forward to working with you this year.

I know there are many, many more folks that deserve a public thank you, Joe, Kip, Pat and so many more people that have touched my life and have become family members through sharing this great sport. Thanks.

Here's to boots on the ground!!! See ya next year!

Todd Ricard
tricard@cfl.rr.com
Vice President
Space Coast Sod Slingers, Inc.
A Florida Not-for-Profit Organization

5
USLMRA Races / Happy Birthday USLMRA
« on: April 01, 2011, 06:39:20 AM »
Founded April 1st, 1992.

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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Walbro LMT 56
« on: March 09, 2011, 09:20:47 AM »
Probably the most common carburetor found on Briggs engines. Anyway, doing some research on venturi design and what not and I haven't been able to find a factory CFM rating for the LMT series carbs. Walbro's website only states that it is for 4 stroke engines from 340 to 500 cc. They don't list the CFM. Maybe they don't actually test them like you would a Holley.

Does anyone know what it is?


7
USLMRA Races / Space Coast Sod Slingers
« on: March 03, 2011, 04:36:45 PM »
USLMRA Affiliated Club, the Space Coast Sod Slingers will be be racing at Hurricane Speedway in Sharpes Florida on Saturday March 5, 2011. Race fee is  $15.00 per mower and $5.00 per spectator. This is a NKA certified track! Registration includes insurance. Pits will open at 2pm Racing begins at 5 pm.
This is a combined event with Sling Shots, Go Karts and Lawn Mowers.
The Track is Located at 662 Canaveral Groves Blvd, Cocoa, Florida.



If all goes well we will post a schedule to complete the season next week.

Space Coast Sod Slingers

www.spacecoastsodslingers.com

8
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Model 21/28 Piston clairification
« on: March 01, 2011, 09:14:49 AM »
Model 21/28 pistons come in many flavors as I can find, a coated piston, non coated, single oil ring (factory assembled spring type), separate three piece oil ring. I am looking for some help filling in some blanks......

STD BORE:
#796155 three separate pieces for the oil ring, and is coated (may be magnesium or aluminium)
#792307 with a single oil ring (I don't know if it is coated or not)

+.020 BORE:
#792728 I can't find a 'real' picture of this one.
#797010 this appears to be the coated one with three piece oil ring

I have tried the 796155 and DO NOT like the oil ring set up. I want a coated piston, single oil ring STD bore P/N and I want the .020 coated, single oil ring P/N's

I also want the non-coated numbers for both sizes too. Any one have this info? I have been trying to find 'real' pictures of all the P/N's but have been unsuccessful.


9
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / I broke it (AGAIN!!!)
« on: July 31, 2010, 09:52:43 AM »
Man the luck I am having.... First I have battled trans trouble all year, probably spent well over the cost of a new trans 'fixin' stuff'. Bought me an ALL NEW trans from one of our favorite suppliers of parts, problems solved. Until yesterday............. While at the test lot ( a large open empty lot that is for sale out in an industrial area ) something at or about the camshaft popped in my mild built Briggs 28 OHV. Whatever broke first slammed the exhaust valve into the top of the magnesium piston busting a hole in it, valve head broke off the stem, then it flopped around and poked a hole in the head at the valve seat, busted the seat into several pieces, got caught in the intake valve and bent that stem, smacked into the spark plug and shattered the ceramic center and completely flattened the electrode. It's very ugly. I haven't pulled the pan off yet to find out exactly what is wrong inside the block, so I'm not sure what my crank, cam and rod look like. But hey 'that's racing'. Now I am in need of a head, a magnesium piston (stock bore) and who know what else yet. Problem is just like most of us...... no dollars to fix it for a while. So i'll be saving up some penny's to turn into dollars to buy some parts. Official season doesn't start until September here in Florida, so maybe I can have it back together by then.

Yeah okay I'm cryin'.... I'm done now, but still bummed...

10
Driveline / 700 transmission troubles
« on: July 20, 2010, 09:42:15 AM »
I have gone through many, many parts in my 700/live axle set-up. Shift keys, spur gears, shafts and cases. The recent explosion of one of the spur gears actually bent the counter shaft and took out 4 other spur gears and blew a hole in the  lower case. I am finally tired of using used parts and purchased a new, never used trans from one of our favorite retailers. Waiting for it to arrive FedEx.

I am now also wondering if my ratio's are part of my tranny troubles. I have an 8 to 5 pulley set (actual working load measurements are 7.25 and 4.875) and 3rd gear at 3:1 through the trans and I use a 12/40 set of sprockets to get 6.72:1 final drive. If I change to a 15/50 I get 6.72:1 or a 17/58 I get 6.88:1. Is there any difference to the load on the trans using one set over the other? Would going to a 15/50 or a 17/56 keep me from breaking a trans part at just about every race? Or is it just a fact that I have been trying to stay cheap and using the older parts have caused most of my troubles? Now that I have used my stock of old 700's and have invested more time and money than the price of a new trans, I want to make sure that there isn't something else I am doing wrong in my set-up. I want my troubles to fade away. I know part of the trouble with shift keys is a loose chain, that causes a lot of back lash when you let off the gas. The spur gears have to take that shock and it causes the gears to rotate backwards against the keys. Then, as you hit the gas the spur gear has to go forward again to make contact with the keys and bang, no more tips on your keys. I have actually found chips missings on the spur gears on the non-drive side of the spur.

11
Model 28 OHV;
B&S P/N 494504 is an older part number, you can still find them for sale if you look hard enough for around $20.00
B&S P/N 494504(S) is the part called for that supersedes the above rod. They can found for around 30 bucks.
B&S P/N 692419 is the newest P/N and sells for around 70 dollars. (all average prices, not just the least expensive)

The physical difference that I can demise is at the crank journal end, the older 494504 has bolts that are the same size (3/8" maybe?)and the other two P/N's have two different sized bolts (3/8" and 1/2"). Please enlighten me if my research is skewed.

My questions;

Are there any other physical differences that would make the 70 dollar rod better than the 30 dollar one? Are the castings different? If so how? I couldn't find any "real" pictures of them online to figure it out on my own.

 

12
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / 15 HP OHV Model 28
« on: November 06, 2009, 07:45:44 AM »
15 HP OHV Model 28

I haven't opened it up yet to look for myself, but going over the parts list/diagram on Briggs' website, it shows three different crankshaft diagrams. #1 is just a crank, #2 shows the crank and a "crank extension" #3 shows crank, extension and counterbalance weights. Reading through the parts number list the date code for my engine uses the #2 configuration.

The question is; Does this motor have a balanced crank that doesn't need the counter weights?

13
Tecumseh Engines / Temperature ranges
« on: September 27, 2009, 10:31:10 PM »
Tecumseh OVXL120 ungoverned stock motor. I finaly got a chance to run it very hard the other day and I happened to have my IR thermometer with me so I checked temp ranges around the motor. The block ran between 200 and 220, intake/carb area was around 175, Head temps were slightly above the block nearing 300 in places but because of cooling fins the reading varried greatly, exhaust header (factory stamped one) was 450 and 1-1/4 exhaust pipe (after header and about 12" in length) was 375 or so. exhaust gas at end of 1-1/2" (about 14" long) pipe was 89. I don't have a way of measuring EGT at any other location.

Now for the question(s);
How close to good ranges are these numbers? I read some posts about temperature and A/F mix but I'm not sure I understand it, maybe someone can explain some more about the subject.

Toad

14
Non-Affiliated Races / Hurricane Speedway, Sharpes Florida
« on: September 10, 2009, 05:45:25 AM »
Exhibition Laps
October 3rd, 2009
Hurricane Speedway, Sharpes Florida
Gates open at 4:00
www.hurricankartinginc.com

:woohoo:


Making every effort to build a local USLMRA affiliated group. If you are interested in helping the cause, bring your mowchine and let's run a few laps. I have been busy visiting local business', talking with folks and handing out information about our sport. I will be in Avon Park on the 19th to network there as well. 

15
USLMRA Races / Avon Park, Florida
« on: September 10, 2009, 05:22:41 AM »
Next Race at the Avon Park Mower Plex
September 19, 2009
Avon Park Mower-Plex
Avon Park Mower Plex, 2155 Herrick Rd, Avon Park, FL.
Spectator admission is $5.00 for adults, with children under 12 free.
Superticket is $10.00 and includes a pit pass.
Spectator Gates open at 5:00 PM
Pit Gates open at 3:00 PM and racing starting at 6:00 PM
Come early to sign in and get your mower teched for the race event.



http://www.floridalawnracing.net/index.html

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