Recent Posts

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1
Mower Engines & Parts / Re: kohler parts
« Last post by noredline on Yesterday at 09:37:33 PM »
standard piston pin height on the pistons? or .750
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Trannys / Axles / Wheels / Re: Need help lowering mower
« Last post by Mower Maniac on Yesterday at 08:12:33 PM »
You could do all that, but those methods don't stand up to much power. Not that safe when trying to go fast. Most of us have custom heavy duty front ends based off of race karts, go kart rear axles, brakes, steering, and gearboxes. It just safer...
3
Trannys / Axles / Wheels / Re: Need help lowering mower
« Last post by TimmyD on Yesterday at 04:07:50 PM »
Get a custom m built front beam axle slacker chassis is good fir them

Go with a 1 1/4 live axle and peerless 700 I currently have both for sale

As for th fluid I use red Texaco or Lucas with some wheel bearing grease works wonders
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Trannys / Axles / Wheels / Need help lowering mower
« Last post by LawnTractorBoys on Yesterday at 12:15:14 PM »
(I originally posted this in the wrong thread)
Hey guys! I'm new to the forum, but I'm looking for some help on my racing mower build. I recently picked up a seat LT1136, I pulled the deck, and the engine, which was an 11HP Briggs and stratton single cylinder, which I'm going to be replacing with either a 14HP single cylinder, or 18HP opposing twin, but I have some questions for a couple other things. The model of my transaxle is a Peerless 800-814

1. Dropping the frame (In the front)
Not sure on which way I should go about this, Im thinking i could take the front spindles, and flip them upside down, flip the front axle altogether, or cut into the frame and suck the axle up higher. But then i'm not sure of the best way to lock the front axle so it doesn't pivot, im thinking of welding it, or if I could drill some holes in the right spots so I can remove it if needed later on.

2. Dropping the frame (In the rear)
I know that people usually take jackshafts and run two belts in their mower, but that costs money, the price of the jackshaft, the bearing, a second belt, and placing idler pulleys, on top of that I would have 2 belts that can burn up, and I don't have money to be buying all this stuff. I've also heard of people cutting into the frame and making new mounting brackets for the transaxle, then flipping the transaxle upside down and rotating it 180 degrees, so it will be higher up kin the frame while the pulley is still where it is supposed to be, but if I were to do this, I would have problems with lubrication, which leads us to my other question

3. Lubrication in the transaxle
So if I were to flip the transaxle upside down, I'm not going to be able to use gear lube like a lot of you guys do, and I'm probably going to have to use the bentonite grease that it comes with, but because im going to be tearing the transmission down, I dont know where I could get bentonite grease, and I hear its awfully expensive, so I was wondering that if I were to flip my transaxle, could I use that grease you use to lubricate bushings and whatnot that comes in the cardboard tubes in my transaxle? Because the consistency doesn't seem too much different from the bentonite grease, but I'm really just trying to find something that will work if I flip the transaxle upside down.
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: Need some (A lot) of help with my build
« Last post by LawnTractorBoys on Yesterday at 11:30:10 AM »
Another question I have, what is a good way to make sure that my transaxle is completely level with the engine so that I'm not wearing the belt down on an angles pulley.
6
Racing Mower Builds / Need some (A lot) of help with my build
« Last post by LawnTractorBoys on Yesterday at 11:24:21 AM »
Hey guys! I'm new to the forum, but I'm looking for some help on my racing mower build. I recently picked up a seat LT1136, I pulled the deck, and the engine, which was an 11HP Briggs and stratton single cylinder, which I'm going to be replacing with either a 14HP single cylinder, or 18HP opposing twin, but I have some questions for a couple other things. The model of my transaxle is a Peerless 800-814

1. Dropping the frame (In the front)
Not sure on which way I should go about this, Im thinking i could take the front spindles, and flip them upside down, flip the front axle altogether, or cut into the frame and suck the axle up higher. But then i'm not sure of the best way to lock the front axle so it doesn't pivot, im thinking of welding it, or if I could drill some holes in the right spots so I can remove it if needed later on.

2. Dropping the frame (In the rear)
I know that people usually take jackshafts and run two belts in their mower, but that costs money, the price of the jackshaft, the bearing, a second belt, and placing idler pulleys, on top of that I would have 2 belts that can burn up, and I don't have money to be buying all this stuff. I've also heard of people cutting into the frame and making new mounting brackets for the transaxle, then flipping the transaxle upside down and rotating it 180 degrees, so it will be higher up kin the frame while the pulley is still where it is supposed to be, but if I were to do this, I would have problems with lubrication, which leads us to my other question

3. Lubrication in the transaxle
So if I were to flip the transaxle upside down, I'm not going to be able to use gear lube like a lot of you guys do, and I'm probably going to have to use the bentonite grease that it comes with, but because im going to be tearing the transmission down, I dont know where I could get bentonite grease, and I hear its awfully expensive, so I was wondering that if I were to flip my transaxle, could I use that grease you use to lubricate bushings and whatnot that comes in the cardboard tubes in my transaxle? Because the consistency doesn't seem too much different from the bentonite grease, but I'm really just trying to find something that will work if I flip the transaxle upside down.
7
Newcomers / Brand new to the site, Mower build questions.
« Last post by Fordcrazy on December 11, 2017, 06:13:18 PM »
Hi Everyone,
   I'll start off by saying I am BRAND new to the site.  I have been around looking through several forums but now have a project and figured I should join a forum and learn some information from the pros. 
   I have been around machinery for a pretty long time, I always have loved Cub Cadet ever since I was a kid mowing the yard on my grandfather's lap and ever since then I have wanted to build a cool tractor. Well the time has come...
I have been looking for an International Harvester Cub to go along with my IH 574 utility tractor. (We currently have a Cub Cadet LTX1050 but the MTD built machine is just not rugged enough for us to use around our farm) A friend at work happen to have a 1810 that he blew up the M18 on and gave it to me. I know this Technically isn't an IH built cub but its really REALLY close.  The machine is in pretty nice shape, the deck was just all redone with new spindles and belt.  I really want to build something mainly for around the farm mowing the lawn around the house and for some smaller projects that I don't need the 574 for. 
   My idea is to build up a mild CH25 Kohler but before I start going crazy and buying parts I wanted to know what you all thought?  Will a Kohler command fit behind the body panels? Is a CH25 the best option? Does it matter if I start with a CH25 block or can I find a good 22 horsepower block and build it from there? What are the physical differences from engine to engine?
Thanks for taking the time to read my post, I'm kind of over whelmed with information and need the advice from real people.
Phil
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Trannys / Axles / Wheels / Re: EC 700 tranny
« Last post by TimmyD on December 10, 2017, 02:16:32 PM »
I have 1 left interested please text 9893262148
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Chassis / Re: miniprow
« Last post by TomL on December 09, 2017, 04:25:57 AM »
Look on my FB
10
Chassis / Re: New Murray Frame Rails
« Last post by TomL on December 09, 2017, 04:25:04 AM »
I think a piece of 2x1x14ga 4' long is about 5 bucks...
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anything