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Topics - Burwell555

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1
Post your Pics! / Burwell's CP for 2013
« on: August 06, 2013, 01:13:02 pm »
My new CP for this season, finally done about two weeks before Sparta. Its a new ride from the ground up, all done by myself with exception of the Midwest Super Cub built Kohler single cylinder. Chassis and bodywork started life as a John Deere X300. It was built for the US rulebook with a live axle and 400 set up. Literally everything hand fabricated by myself, fully TIG welded chassis. I did all the body work, dad sprayed the paint. It was his offering as to "let me do something for ya"  :lol:

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Coffee Shop / 6" Douglas wheels
« on: January 21, 2013, 09:22:22 am »
Ok I'm about to drive myself crazy with this one. I'm looking for a 6" diameter, 7" wide Douglas standard bolt pattern wheel with 2 1/2" backspacing. I would like to have the "classic spun" polished finish wheel but google isn't helping me find anything. Does anybody know if somethin like this is even available? If not I guess it's off to a "machined" wheel. Thanks for the help in advance

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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Vanny interchangability
« on: February 05, 2012, 03:07:59 pm »
Dad and I are in the middle of deciding on how to tackle our next project. I just took in two different vanny engines. One is a 35 cube vertical, the other a 30 cube horizontal. The 35 was complete and running but I received it in basket form. The 30 had a broken rod but the block is not hurt. Just aluminum galled around the journal. So original plan was to use the 30 horizontal and just put it back together. But after dad looks in the box of parts between the two, he thinks we would be better off with 35 cubes. I agree. I am not very familiar with Vanny stuff, so was wondering what I needed to use the 35 in horizontal configuration. What is different? Just the side cover and oil pump stuff? Or is the block and crank different from a horizontal to vertical in the 35 cube? Also what is the difference in the cams and cylinder heads?

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Coffee Shop / Who sells front brakes with a 6"-7" rotor?
« on: December 15, 2011, 01:13:54 pm »
Ok fellas, I am in the market for a front brake kit. I am currently running the EC set up which are I believe 3.5" rotor. I would like to try something with a bigger rotor. After looking through the links section, I can only find one site that has them. And Im not even sure that is the set I want. Not to splatter a name, but I just dont have the details on the set I saw. SO, my question to you guys, who sells something with a 6-7" rotor? As in who makes them and also where could they be found? Im pretty open to suggestions and would like to use my current spindles. They are EC barrels with I believe a 5 inch stub axle length. My own stub axles, just to clear that up. And these will be going on a prepared chassis at 38 inches wide.

Mods, I apologize but this is intended to be an info thread to lead me to a distributor, not a wanted to buy type deal. So to keep this in the coffee shop I would imagine we would need to talk through PM about a possible sale if it were to come to that.  ;)

Thanks!!

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Coffee Shop / Slideways???
« on: October 12, 2011, 05:09:23 pm »
Out of curiosity does anybody know how to get ahold of a guy on here that goes by Slideways? He hasn't been online since we made a deal. He sent me a check, I cashed it. Let it clear the bank and came back good so went to ship his parts a few days later but the address on the envelope got tore up too much for me to read it. So if anybody knows how to get ahold of him, please PM me or tell him to contact me so I can send his stuff to him! Thanks!

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Coffee Shop / Help a guy out??
« on: August 01, 2011, 11:29:53 pm »
Hey all, I dont usually do this but i am in the running for readers ride of the month over at cool rides online. It all started a couple weeks ago when I built my profile to help a friend of mine (who some of ya ,may know as Rooster, Fong for you wisconsin boys :bash:) who is sponsored by them, and here we are, entered into ride of the month.  :lol: As some of you may know, my dad and I truck pull, so Im using it as the ride. A little about it: 1993 GMC sheetmetal on a 1997 Dodge frame using the factory front coil spring set up ( until recently we added drag style coil overs and redid the 4 link bars on the front axle). The class we run is called Pro Street. Were running a 565 Big Block Chevy on race gas that made 1130 horse on the dyno with one carb. All driveline casings must be OEM 1 ton or less pieces, but aftermarket internals are allowed so we are running custom gear sets. Dad and I did ALL the work except for the motor build. The rest, design, fabrication, driveline and paint was all done inhouse at H&S Chassis Shop by us. It really is a cool one off piece, we are actually the only guys in the class to build our own chassis and we can compete. the coolest part, all the factory interior is still in place!!! Yes!! factory seats, dash and steering column...even POWER WINDOWS!! Gotta keep that Pro Street look!!.

So if ya have a second, could you, or would you click on over and vote for me??!! I would greatly appreciate it!!! We are each allowed to vote only once per day. So if ya only vote once period, great. Wanna vote everyday, totally AWESOME!!! Greatly Appreciated. 8)

Zach

http://www.goldeagle.com/event_marketing/coolridesonline.aspx

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Chassis / For the guys who REALLY know brakes
« on: January 22, 2011, 05:34:18 pm »
Ok I'm placin a question out in the open for the pros that really know their stuff about mcp brakes!!! I am in the middle of my thought process and have 2 masters, both cast mcp units, as I'm running front brakes. When the machine was originally built, I bought a 3/4 bore, dual outlet unit from bmi karts. Hooked it to a wilwood 2 pistin sled caliper and it worked great, with a very stiff pedal. Fast forward to mid summer when EC had the big sale. I caved and bought an EC front brake kit, it was complete with a master. I'm about 95 percent positive the guy making the same said it was 7/8 bore. It is also a cast mcp unit, dual outlet obviously. But things never really were quite right. It seemed like the pedal was still very stiff when hooked to the rears only and the front was stiff, but had waaay more travel than the rear if they were hooked up seperate, from the same identical linkage. So, I have discussed with dad that I should have the same bore sizes for both master cylinders to make the whole bias setup work correctly. Ok great. But then last week I bought another EC brake kit used, so between the 3, I have to have a pair of masters that are the same. BUT, the guy I bought them from said aps sold him the master that they said 'would work' but he can not remember the bore of it. So, I am wondering how to figure out which it is. I took all 3 of the master cylinders I now have apart and measured the piston OD and I'd, as well as the body I'd where the piston goes into. Now the only problem is, they all measured the same!!!! So what did I miss??? I know all this rambling is sounding stupid but I know I ordered a 3/4 bore from bmi right off the bat. But nothing in any of the units measures .750. The OD of the pistons are all between .862 and .868. The I'd of the pistons are all between .498 and .510. So this would make me wanna think all of these masters are 7/8 and bmi sent me the wrong one from the get go. What's the experts thoughts?? Lol I'm ready to pull my hair out here!!! is there somethin else I should measure??? Thanks in advance. 

8
Coffee Shop / Firesuits
« on: November 15, 2010, 12:53:09 pm »
Ok this might be a long shot but its worth a try as some of us on here dont just race lawn mowers. I am lookin for a single layer nomex fire suit, with the seperate jacket and pants as well as matching gloves. The catch is, i saw a guy at a truck pull this summer on a John Deere hot rod and his suit was also deere green with a yellow stripe about an inch wide up the side of the whole suit. He also told me it was somewhere around 250 bucks, which is cheap!!! I cannot remember the name that was on the suit and do not have his contact info. So, does anybody know where i can get a suit made for a reasonable price?? I already looked on G Force, Simpson Stroud and RJS websites. G Force says ya cant buy direct, Simpson is stupid priced like normal,Stroud didnt seem to have much and RJS just listed kart and junior dragster stuff. So any ideas?? thanks in advance!!!!

9
Chassis / Frame Lightening
« on: November 13, 2010, 11:23:54 am »
Ok winter is here, after last season and adding a brace here and there, a rear bumper, steering stabilizer, frontbrakes and other odds and ends I have managed to pick up around 20 pounds. I'm planning on reworkin what I have to lose some of that weight but won't be able to shed it all that easily. So, the rest I believe can be taken out of my frame with a little time and a hole saw lol. But with the deere, it has a 3/16 thick C channel style frame I plan on boxing in with some thin materialk to make it a little stronger. So now I am to the point I ask the question, is it legal to run a hole saw down the side of my frame rails? The rules say discrete strengthening allowed, but I'm not adding strenght nor taking away with this. I run mostly ARMA but would like to hit a couple USLMRA nationals races and run in the finals here in delaware. Please give me your thoughts. Thanks in advance

10
Tires / off the wall tire question
« on: November 10, 2010, 11:50:27 am »
Ok so I have been reading and looking. Did some peakin at the All American last weekend on the super mods and outlaws. Most run the hoosiers, saw a set of american racers and one feller was way diferent and had 18 inch turf masters. Why is nobody running the burris treads or are they not made for an 8 inch rim?

11
Driveline / brake pads
« on: August 14, 2010, 04:57:32 pm »
Ok so its time for new pads and I'm running a wilwood 2 piston caliper off I believe an arctic cat. I don't think there much difference in wilwoods in general from my race car knowledge, but am not sure. I have no local sled shops and jegs claims they can't get the pads. The number stamped into them is 150-3830. Anybody know where I can order them online? Missed out on a race that I would have really like to attended tonight

12
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Briggs Intek Twin problems
« on: April 25, 2010, 02:34:53 pm »
Ok guys I have an intek twin els series motor. Its an ELS series 24 horse engine with model #446677. It is pretty much a stocker with the exception of 49 cube rods, rons intake kit and filter and a homebuilt exhaust header. For some reason it breaks up and acts like the carb loads up on idle. The carb is the 2 barrel nikki version. I took it aprt and put all new gaskets and removed/ plugged the choke horn. Nothing else is done to it. It kinda starts hard, as in I have to put my hand over the intake to get it to start. Two days ago i installed the rods and put all new gaskets on. When doing so I made sure to line thetime marks up on tye cam and crank gear. They lined up on every other revolution of the crankshaft. So I cannot figure out why it backfires and pops. This carb and motor doesnt seem to be near as crisp adn responsive as my opposed was. It is loading up at idle, after pedaling it to clean it out it is fine until about 3300 rpm according to the digatron. At this point it starts to break up and act stupid. I have my coil gap set at .015 at the magnet and valve lash is .006. I am also running 93 octane fuel and have brand new briggs long life plugs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

13
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Rod Bolts
« on: April 14, 2010, 11:51:06 pm »
Ok I have searched in this forum and asked in a few other threads and it seems as if i cant find an answer nowhere not even on the ARP website. What size are the rod bolts in the 44 intek twin?  What numbers do you guys use to get them from ARP? Thank you!!

14
Chassis / Chassis Flex
« on: March 22, 2010, 07:42:49 pm »
Ok chassis gurus..my question relates directly to the twist of the frame and this thread is likely to start a good debate for the guys really in it for winnin braggin rights  :lol:. So flex has to be eliminated, that is obvious due to reinforcin the chassis with square tube, round, stock or whatever your preference is. But is there a such thing as too much? After settin my buddys box frame on the scales and watchin it transfer weight and "feel" how solid it is under me, i am revisiting the idea of x bracing my deere frame. I have bee told its unneccessary but it just doesnt feel as stout as the mtd my buddy has. he used 3/4 thin wall just as george does.


 Also, lets talk about corner weights. This is where I am at a total loss. I know that the LF an RR need to have the most weight on them in the curve, but what about when ya are goin straight? I realize there is no perfect number and most of this will be based on percentages, but what are the percentages!!???? I am at a total loss here fellas. I would appreciate some help and a good debate and well thought opinions.


So let the arguements begin! :lol:

15
Racing Mower Builds / John Deere 180 Build
« on: February 06, 2010, 12:08:33 am »
Ok I will be building a John Deere 180 to USLMRA prepared rules and race in the Ohio LC as well as to fit a local organization we are tryin to get going around home. I am undecided as to SP or CP with US but will be runnin a V twin intek for the other. This mower will incorporate a live axle for which I have all the parts as well as a home fabbed fully adjustable front axle. Anything I missed just ask away and we will cover as I move along. I will post progress as it is made and when I get access to my buddies wireless internet as Im on dial up.
    I have done quite a bit of reading on here and talked to Howie and Frank the Tank and received quite a bit of advice as well as front end stuff from Chuck Miller. So moving on to a little bit of history of the mower and then pics!!
   The Deere was setting out back with everything minus deck and was being used for a spare motor on the grass cutter after it donated the freshly rebuilt deck. Dad took the motor and said race it or junk it, so I saved it!  :lol:

Here it is as I drug it in








So all in all its in pretty good shape...fenders are rusty but thats a given and I need to find a headlight lense but at the moment them are minor details  ;)
So I have about three days worth of work rolled into one big posting session....sorry guys!

Her it is in the stripping stages:





It came factory with the push pull cluch alraedy so I will be relocating it and usin it again. A friend of mine has with really good results
Well I got it mocked up to start putting rear axle in. Runnin Turf Pros on 8x7 Douglas wheels. I have regular 3 bolt cassettes, nothin special, that will hold free spin bearings. The axle is 1.25 moly. I have the EC multi pattern hubs as well as their sprockets and quick change hub to be shown later. I am up in the air on brakes.

The fenders are a little close to the tires so I will be raising them with 3/4 square tube. I am looking to incorporate a cross bar to weld seat bracket tabs to. then cut into the fenders to lower the seat a little, but not below the tops of the fender! Is this legal US guys?


The frame before choppin and lowering





Cassetes bolted in and frame cut to allow for easy removal of axle of need be. I learned the hard way on my old MTD.


Axle, wheels tires and EC hubs


Axle all bolted in settin on the stands still.


Complete and on the floor.


Shot from the rear.

So other than personal preferences from some cuz its a Deere, what do ya guys think? Any questions?

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