Hey guys, She's finally done and rips! Stickers are going on tonight along with a rear bumper.



Tell me what you guys think!

I thought the steering shaft had to exit the dash at the factory angle/location? Yours is where the gas tank was.

For ARMA I think its just behind the motor and centered in the frame.. ill check that though

Nico,

   The best arrangement is to put two guides by each pulley, 1/8" from the outer edge, at 90 degrees from the pulley-to-pulley centerline.  Do not put guides at the ends of the pulleys -- it will interfere with allowing the belt to slacken for proper shifting.

Thanks for the advice- Got it all fixed! Belt guides were in, and my old pulley for the transmission wasn't allowing the belt to slip enough, so I bought a new anodized one and now everything works great! Should be testing this puppy out in a few days, still have to get new brake lines and pharrels, but besides that, Its time to Rock and MOW!

Both pulleys as well as the clutch itself.  Look at George's MTD build (early ones) and they will show placement of the guides.  Also look at EC's billet clutch assembly and it will show a guide pin on each of those pulleys too.

Great! Thanks for the help- I have a belt guide for the clutch off of a JD that just bolts onto the same bolt the pulley rides on! For the engine and tranny pulleys I will be welding bolts about 1/4 - 1/2 inch away from the lip of each pulley.

-Nico

I was wondering if a peerless 717a is a good gearbox. it has a 3/8" input and a 5/8" output shaft.

I run the same transmission, they are really solid units, but make sure you get the EC tranny plate with the input support or else that little input will snap right off with the amount of torque these mowers pull.

-nico

There is a reason the underneath steering is so poplar. 

Simple, easy, and effective. 

John Deere used a set up like your talking about on some mowers.  It used 2 tie rods.  One to each spindle straddling the engine.  I Think it used a gear drive behind the engine.  I'm not a fan of gear drive on a racing mower. 

I'd just do the underneath seeing this is your first mower.  No need to over complicate it. 

Okay thanks for the input, with the BMI spindles I have, do you think I can weld onto them or would I need to bolt?? I would much rather weld a piman arm off of them but im not sure if I could or can..

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Make sure you understand "Scrub Angle" it attributes to hard steering.

I also have the "push, pull" steering, it does seem to have mechanical advantage, but after two years of running it , Ii have discovered one tiny flaw. If you move your body to either side you tend to drag the steering wheel with you, this happened to me at the end of last season, caused me to wreck as the wheels went full lock. I still like the steering, just something to remember.

I have seen the push/pull set ups, some of the super mods that race at our track run them, I might try to do the direct steering route, hopefully without losing too much clearance!! What is the push pull set up like up close and mechanical? Is it set up different than the popular underneath design?

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How far do you have to turn your wheel from lock to lock?  Could have some of your linkage working against you if it's setup against your advantage. 

Like what cycloneracer said, its pretty complicated and just wont work on my mower.

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EC CARB, HITCH, AND ST. CROIX CHASSIE ALL HAVE SETUPS. COMPLETE OR PARTS TO DO YOUR OWN VERISON.

Great! Whats hitch? Could you leave a link?

You still have more work to do.   Your still too fast on the steering.   It will be hard to control at speed with the steering that fast.   Shorten up the arm on the steering wheel.

Also you need spherical rod ends on all your tie rods.   That will help you a lot.   You won't have any bind and it will get rid of the rest of your slack.

The ratio I will work on, Adjustable hiem joint tie rods are in the mail and should be here in a few days. I also have some other ideas for my steering.. because of the starter interfering with the rod going from the steering column to the bell crank, my only potion would be to lengthen the pitman arm on the bell crank, which I could do by about an inch. Would that make a noticable difference??

Here is a heat and the feature of the Super Mods at The mx207 in Maine. This was back in October!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMCruZMiiaI