1
Briggs Flathead / Re: oppy rods
« on: July 08, 2013, 06:17:57 pm »
yep I read that on heymow, that the briggs manual is wrong, so I believe there in right
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Lookin' forward to the pics! Could you tell me the proper flux to silver solder copper pipes? I have an oxy/act torch and some flat sticks (don't remember the silver %) of silver solder already.
Garry
[/quote
you should not need flux with silver solder just make sure your copper is clean i would braze the joints if there not socket welds if you use copper wire for rod you could polish the joints they would appear seamless i think its very hard to weld copper with copper though, seen it done on tv one time
I was checking and the Geo Metro has a 1 L engine. I may pick some up after work and tinker with it tonight.
how did you get the alm off the crank after the first rod failure?my local machine shop clean the crank.
I am guessing the crank still had smear
I have been running stock 42 rods with heavy .030 pistons in mine all season, no wear other than cylinder walls.oil right on, end unsure, but do you think end play could seize the lower rod? very even not real deep. on discoloration yep
Did you measure the crank journal to ensure it is perfectly round? What kind of scoring? Deep and Even, or do you see a crater or "pit" with a "stream" behind it? Any discoloration of the rod journal or the connecting rod?
Oil Level? Oil Type? End play measurement? Bent Crank? Just thinking. Lower Journal IS unusual.
instead of cutting off the second tap, you can instead purchase a bottoming tap.ditto