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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 29, 2009, 04:08:12 pm »
The reason for the old saying cut once measure twice rule!
After I got everything welded on and all set I decided to take a few measurements. Well lets just say my math was good, just my brain wasn't. I forgot to lower my air pressures down to the lowest pressure I would run (I measured them with 20 PSI in them) and I forgot to add in my 1/4'' fudge factor I wanted for weight and tire wear. I should have made these adjustable
, save time my #$@. So after a lot of staring and more swearing I figured out how I could gain my 3/8'' back without a complete tear down. As they sat I had 4 1/4 with 20 PSI. With 5 psi and 250lbs on the rear end it sat at 3.75''. I ended up rotating and lowering the cassettes as far down as I could in the weldments and grinding away a little for some bearing clearance. This gave me 4 1/2 unloaded and 4 1/8 with 250# on the rear both set at 5psi. I hope that will be enough.
Shows the old holes and the new placement. I rotated the cassette so I could get as much room for the bottom bolt as I could. I also swapped sides of the weldment so I could have fresh steel and not try to drill holes so close to each other.
Even with the rotation I needed to change the bottom to a stud rather than a through bolt/welded nut setup.
Shot of the stud welded to the bottom of the frame and the modification to the cassette to accept a nut and washer.
After I got everything welded on and all set I decided to take a few measurements. Well lets just say my math was good, just my brain wasn't. I forgot to lower my air pressures down to the lowest pressure I would run (I measured them with 20 PSI in them) and I forgot to add in my 1/4'' fudge factor I wanted for weight and tire wear. I should have made these adjustable
, save time my #$@. So after a lot of staring and more swearing I figured out how I could gain my 3/8'' back without a complete tear down. As they sat I had 4 1/4 with 20 PSI. With 5 psi and 250lbs on the rear end it sat at 3.75''. I ended up rotating and lowering the cassettes as far down as I could in the weldments and grinding away a little for some bearing clearance. This gave me 4 1/2 unloaded and 4 1/8 with 250# on the rear both set at 5psi. I hope that will be enough.Shows the old holes and the new placement. I rotated the cassette so I could get as much room for the bottom bolt as I could. I also swapped sides of the weldment so I could have fresh steel and not try to drill holes so close to each other.
Even with the rotation I needed to change the bottom to a stud rather than a through bolt/welded nut setup.
Shot of the stud welded to the bottom of the frame and the modification to the cassette to accept a nut and washer.
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 29, 2009, 10:56:12 am »Being listed as an A/P build I assumeyour building to US rules. That said you look in the rule book wirte down Manny Torres # he is listed as head tech call him and get your answer. IN ARMA I can tell you no you cannot scratch build your motor plate.
I am trying to build for both classes since there is an ARMA class fairly close to me. Can I weld the original engine plate on top of the one I built to make it legal or would that still be considered a fabricated plate?
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USLMRA Races / A/P Engine Plate?
« on: November 29, 2009, 10:49:46 am »
Can I fabricate a new engine plate in the A/P class? The original is bolted on the chassis (Huffy) and has a raised ridge and is made of light stamped steel that would have to be modified to be used. It also uses the inner 3 threaded holes in the bottom of the engine which I don't think will be strong enough for this class. Here is the build if you would like some more clarification http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=12728.0 Thanks!
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 29, 2009, 09:13:19 am »I didn't think you could replace the frame rails in A/P or minisportsman. Thought that was only allowed in Pro-X or F/X.
Or the engine plate either.
Frame rails are the original Huffy rails "discretely" strengthened with 1/8 plate on the bottom to box it in and 1x1 angle on the inside, engine plate is not OEM. I really need a definite call on this one before I go any further.
OK I see how you did the frame rails nice job.
Thanks!
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 29, 2009, 09:07:03 am »
So I moved onto the weldments for the bearing cassettes. I really debated making them adjustable but figured I would save myself some time and just solid mount them at a 4.25'' ride height.
I welded a nut on the inside of the frame for the bottom mount before I closed up the frame.
All closed up nice and neat.
Cleaned up the corners and welded on.
Wheels on and checking the finished ride height AFTER everything is finished welded on.
I welded a nut on the inside of the frame for the bottom mount before I closed up the frame.
All closed up nice and neat.
Cleaned up the corners and welded on.
Wheels on and checking the finished ride height AFTER everything is finished welded on.
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 29, 2009, 08:48:43 am »
I managed to get a little shop time after Thanksgiving. Both jobs are absolutely nuts right now and won't let up 'till after Christmas so things are pretty slow on the progress side.
Started on the rear axle placement. Found out (like most of these small chassis') that the axle will have to sit below the top of the frame to get down close to the 4'' min. I wanted to have a clean and straight cut so I took my time and think I figured out a pretty cool way to do it with simple home shop tools.
First I tack welded a scrap piece to the bottom of the frame where the weldments for the axle will go.
I then took the blank 1/4 plates that will be my weldments, figured out where the centerline of my axle needed to be on the frame and drilled a 1/4'' hole in them for the hole saw.
Then I tacked both weldments onto the scrap plate thats tacked to frame to form a jig for the hole saw.
I took the original drill bit out of the hole saw and replaced it with a 18'' section of 1/4'' solid rod. The rod will pass through both holes in the weldments keeping the hole saw perfectly in line (almost)
I tried to cut the hole like in the picture above and the saw chattered bad so a clamped it all in the drill press. That worked way better and just about eliminated the chatter.
The resulting chatter
Started on the rear axle placement. Found out (like most of these small chassis') that the axle will have to sit below the top of the frame to get down close to the 4'' min. I wanted to have a clean and straight cut so I took my time and think I figured out a pretty cool way to do it with simple home shop tools.
First I tack welded a scrap piece to the bottom of the frame where the weldments for the axle will go.
I then took the blank 1/4 plates that will be my weldments, figured out where the centerline of my axle needed to be on the frame and drilled a 1/4'' hole in them for the hole saw.
Then I tacked both weldments onto the scrap plate thats tacked to frame to form a jig for the hole saw.
I took the original drill bit out of the hole saw and replaced it with a 18'' section of 1/4'' solid rod. The rod will pass through both holes in the weldments keeping the hole saw perfectly in line (almost)
I tried to cut the hole like in the picture above and the saw chattered bad so a clamped it all in the drill press. That worked way better and just about eliminated the chatter.
The resulting chatter
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 23, 2009, 12:50:55 pm »is it arma legal to "make" your own engine/trans plate like this one? Looks awesome by the way. The reason I ask is that I am about to start a mini build on a huffy as well.
The way I read the rules it is, "Crankshaft must be in original orientation. Engine plate may be welded to
frame rails in as close to the original location as possible" it doesn't say "original" engine plate. I asked for a little clarification in my second post but I didn't get an answer, so I'm going with it for now. I did save the old engine plate and if it gets denied in tech I'll just weld it on top of the plate I have now.
How thick is your engine trans plate?
1/4 plate
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 18, 2009, 02:55:29 pm »
And if I ever went the FX route I think I go the sidewinder/jackshaft route. Not that that has crossed my mind or anything 
. I need seat time first though.
. I need seat time first though.
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 16, 2009, 02:24:48 pm »
Got a few hours in Sunday morning. My trans and tires came in Friday afternoon, now I'm just waiting on the rims which should be here this week sometime.
started laying out the engine/trans mounting. I'm trying to leave as much room for my clutch/belt setup and making the chain fairly short. Hope this is a good idea.
Got the holes all drilled for the motor and trans. The slot is for the chain and the rest are just go-fast holes.
Took out about 1.5-2#'s with all the holes added up not including the needed ones.
A shot of the placement
Making sure I didn't totally screw up! I have about an inch of steering shaft clearance.
started laying out the engine/trans mounting. I'm trying to leave as much room for my clutch/belt setup and making the chain fairly short. Hope this is a good idea.
Got the holes all drilled for the motor and trans. The slot is for the chain and the rest are just go-fast holes.
Took out about 1.5-2#'s with all the holes added up not including the needed ones.
A shot of the placement
Making sure I didn't totally screw up! I have about an inch of steering shaft clearance.
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 11, 2009, 02:00:42 pm »
Ended up going to NAPA and found some tapered roller bearings with .625 inner and 1.5xx outer race. Now I just need to find the corresponding pipe I.D and I'll be all set. I think I'll be much better off with the tapered bearings 
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 10, 2009, 06:49:26 pm »
I was afraid you were going to say that. I found some tapered roller bearings but the smallest OD I could find was 1.75. Thats a little on the big side I think.
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Garden Tractor Pulling / Re: Thinking of getting into it
« on: November 10, 2009, 05:29:55 pm »
Check this guys web site out. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm
And of course http://www.midwestsupercub.net/default.asp
Cubs are just about the best platform to build from. I pulled an old "original" cub for years and was undefeated one season in the 750 lb class. We also pulled a few Panzers and a newer style Cub 782. My favorite by far was the Rotax powered Modified we pulled. That was fun!
And of course http://www.midwestsupercub.net/default.asp
Cubs are just about the best platform to build from. I pulled an old "original" cub for years and was undefeated one season in the 750 lb class. We also pulled a few Panzers and a newer style Cub 782. My favorite by far was the Rotax powered Modified we pulled. That was fun!
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 10, 2009, 04:56:26 pm »The schedule 40 pipe you are using to weld the spindle to, you might want to weld a sleeve inside to hold the outer races of the bearings from sliding together. I dont know how much strain the snap rings on the outside of the bearing races will take.
I did a little test fit with the bearings and a seat for the outer bearings (it was loose for a test) and another sleeve to separate the inner races. It made it a real you know what to separate everything after I was done. Am I just going to have to live with it or can I eliminate that second sleeve/spacer for the inner races if I weld in a "seat" for the outer races? That way I would have a little room to get a punch in at an angle should I need to re-build them. I like the idea with the sch. 80, just wish I had access to a lathe.
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Racing Mower Builds / Re: A/P Huffy Build
« on: November 10, 2009, 01:01:47 pm »
Started the front end assembly. Would like to here some feedback.
The front plate that will hold the 5/8 heims. Slotted enough for about 8* of caster adjustability. When I weld them onto the beam ends should I weld them at say 5* so I can go from 3* negative to about 13* positive or just weld the straight up?
Setting up for 10* KPI. I'm a little unsure of the ball bearings being able to hold up to the stress thats going to be put on them. Should I be nervous?
A closer look. I used some sch 40 pipe for the center bearing mount, it needed a little grinding to fit the bearings but it was very close. I'm going to use a spacer in between the bearings for a little more support and I built in an inch of ride height adjustability.
I'm waiting on my rims and tires to show up along with my transmission. Kinda waiting around. I'm hesitant to set ride height and front width without the wheels and tires. Also not 100% sure how long of a bolt to run up front so I'm stuck for now.
The front plate that will hold the 5/8 heims. Slotted enough for about 8* of caster adjustability. When I weld them onto the beam ends should I weld them at say 5* so I can go from 3* negative to about 13* positive or just weld the straight up?
Setting up for 10* KPI. I'm a little unsure of the ball bearings being able to hold up to the stress thats going to be put on them. Should I be nervous?
A closer look. I used some sch 40 pipe for the center bearing mount, it needed a little grinding to fit the bearings but it was very close. I'm going to use a spacer in between the bearings for a little more support and I built in an inch of ride height adjustability.
I'm waiting on my rims and tires to show up along with my transmission. Kinda waiting around. I'm hesitant to set ride height and front width without the wheels and tires. Also not 100% sure how long of a bolt to run up front so I'm stuck for now.
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