You can leave the chain in for now if you want, but I would suggest taking it out now while you have it all apart.  When the chain breaks it will wedge itself between the case and the sprocket/gears and destroy case halves

Thanks for your reply.
Will look at increasing torsion strength of frame , and engine base plate .
Originally I thought engine block needed strengthening for extra hp

99% of the time they crack because the base plate is not flat,if the pan rocks at all it stresses the block when bolted down and wil eventualy crack the block,a sure sign of this is the pan bolts loosening up

I go by the torque specs on the chart that i attached.  Use your model number to find what row to look in for the correct torque values

I think the only difference in the 3, 4, and 5 speed transmissions are the gear sets inside of them.  The 3 speed transmissions generally came in snowblowers.  That's why there were no 4th or 5th gear in them.  No need to run behind the snowblower haha.  Besides having different gear sets inside, everything should be interchangeable with the 4 and 5 speed transmissions. 

Most people race the 4 or 5 speed transmissions in 3rd gear anyways.  This is the strongest gear set to race with because the gears that transfer the power to each other are the same size (25 tooth gears i think...).  When you take your trans apart to race prep it, see if any of the 3 gear sets are two 25 tooth gears.  If there are, you can just race in what ever gear that happens to be and change your sprocket sizes to adjust your final ratio to the size track you are running. 

Righto,

thanks to those who messaged , i have fixed the problem. when i removed the magnet from the old flywheel it was not attached to the plastic case or the steel rounded piece. I must have put it back the wrong way and the polarity was wrong. I changed the polarity of the magnet by turning it around and now i have spark.
good bit of learning about the basics of magnetism.

cheer s