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Messages - cycloneracer

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2956
Briggs Flathead / Need help with wiring.
« on: September 19, 2006, 09:19:09 pm »
Randy,
That is an excellent diagram, anyone who hasn't built a racing mower and doesn't  know how to wire it should have a copy of that!

On a different note.  Were you at the races in MN.  I thougt you were and I was going to introduce my self but didn't get a chance.  Austin was a Zoo after the race and we were working on our trailer and a mower before.  Morris well my mower broke (twice) and I was franticly working on it and then the rain.  I guess there is next year.  You may remember seeing my mower though, the shiny red SP.

2957
Briggs Flathead / Need help with wiring.
« on: September 19, 2006, 09:11:13 pm »
Corey,
If that is your plan I would still rewire the whole system.  The stocker just isn't going to be that reliable.  Those tiny wires will get hot and cause problems if you plan on running lights for any lenth of time.  Also the stock alternator won't keep up with the original lights to start with....so I'd make the system as simple as possible.  You need to get rid of all that extra wire to the safety switches or you will have a FIRE.   So I'd upgrade all the wireing if it was me.  Remember these are lawnmowers not ATV's.

2958
Briggs Flathead / Need help with wiring.
« on: September 19, 2006, 08:39:24 pm »
That appears to be a pigtail that plugs into the stock key switch.  For a racer I'd dump the stock key and put in a push button start.  Easier to use and alot less complicated.  Then use your kill teather to stop the engine.   I'd rewire the entire system, you don't need all the functions of the stock system.  Only have the wires you need to start and kill the engine and you won't have to chase wire problems in the future.  And if you do have problems you only have 2 or 3 components that can go wrong.
Hope this helps

2959
Driveline / Deal on new 700-039 update
« on: August 01, 2006, 08:39:43 am »
O.K.
Here we go, as you know I have a source for new 700-039 trannys at a good price.  I have good news and bad news.
Here is the good, I "could" make it work
But now the bad
the main supplier has changed the price they are now $255 and currently out of stock.  If thats not bad enough they have added a shipping charge on top of that, another $30.  So we are up to $285, then I'd need approx $20-$25 to ship it to you.  So is is not looking good is it.
About the out of stock, they were not sure they were ever going to get any more in.  The one I bought they had on the shelf for a long time.  Could possibly special order direct from company but another Fee!
So it looks like a no go at this time, if something changes I'll post it here.  My best advice, check e-bay there is a bunch of them on there now.  I just got 2 in the last week.  One for $60 and another for $35.  I was biddign on one but not real serious about buying and it only brought $50.
Sorry for the bad news
Later
Paul
Here is my good deed for the night.  6:30 central time a little more than 2 hours left and only $41---------- Bid away not my auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&item=250012134713&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

2960
Driveline / Looking for New Peerless:
« on: July 31, 2006, 08:26:36 am »
I am working on something right now.  I'll post info on here when I get the details worked out.   Keep your eyes open for a post about new 700-039's
Later

2961
Post your Pics! / Pics of my SP #150
« on: July 30, 2006, 01:10:26 am »
Don's carb-----WAAAAAAAAAAAY Cool.  Just like Squidd said very forgiving.  Set it and leave it.    Looks nothing like a briggs when you get it back.  I've tried to do the same thing with not so good results.  You will be very happy.
Later

2962
Driveline / race prepped tranny worth?
« on: July 28, 2006, 06:47:00 pm »
O.K.  Looks like we have some intrest.  I need to talk to him to see if we can even do this, I don't want him to get in trouble for selling parts at cost.  So here is the deal, I'll talk to him next week and see what I can do.  Then I'll put up a post for all who may be interested I'll only want to make one order because I'm not going to make any money on this deal.  Just trying to help.  I'll post back next week with news and mower info if we can make this work.
Thanks

2963
Driveline / race prepped tranny worth?
« on: July 28, 2006, 06:39:31 pm »
I have a buddy that works at the local implement dealer.  He gets them for me.  Not sure if it is cost, but it probably is.  If you seriously want one I can ask him what he will sell one for and I can ship it to you.  So it would be cost of tranny plus actual shipping because it will come in a box that I can ship.
Let me know

2964
Driveline / race prepped tranny worth?
« on: July 28, 2006, 04:50:19 pm »
I just got a stocker off ebay for $68.  Have seen them go as high as $150 for stocker.  But here is the catch I can buy a NEW 700-039 for $190 and it has the steel gears, 4 key shifter, and bearings on the output shaft.  And it is all new.  So I'll only go to $100 on ebay because by the time I buy the parts to make it new I'll be way over the price of a new one.  
So I'd say that  $150 is probably a decent deal for one that is rebuilt and ready to go.
Later

2965
Post your Pics! / Pics of my SP #150
« on: July 28, 2006, 04:41:48 pm »
It started out as Plan A--------------but you know how things go.  It quickly became Plan B.  Nothing went right in the build.  Front axle put in and cut out---twice.  Steering took four designs.  Clutch/belt system is still under development.  On my 4th tranny and second trany plate.  Do you see the pattern?????!!!!!!  But it sure is fun.

Rocky
That link thing is cool, not sure I'll remember how to use it though!
Later

2966
Post your Pics! / Pics of my SP #150
« on: July 27, 2006, 10:46:23 pm »
No the axle sits above the frame bottom 1/5 inches to the center of the axle.  I have dial up so pics take a while.  Try this go to Coffee shop, look at subject "the begining", go to page 3, and post #8.  That isn't my mower but the same thing.  Where he has marked is where my axle is.  I'm not sure on the distance from the top of the frame but I'm sure you'll get the idea.  If you still need a pic let me know and I'll get one, but it will take time.
Later

2967
Post your Pics! / Pics of my SP #150
« on: July 27, 2006, 01:38:29 pm »
I have 5 inches in the back.  My axle is 1.5 inches from the bottom of the frame to the center of the axle.  I guess I did "cut" the frame, just not alot.  I used the bearing holders from APS (page 22 lower left hand side of page) to reinforce where I bolted on my bearing flanges.  I put the bottom of the holder even with the bottom of the frame, cut out hole and mount axle. USLMRA rules let you discretley move your fenders so I jacked mine up about 1/4 inch in the back, this gives you about 1/2 to 3/4 inch more tire clearance.
I am running carslile turf masters-  16-7.5-8 on a 8x8 Jr. Dragster rim.
In the pics it looks real low because of the grass.  I need to mow!!!!

2968
Post your Pics! / Pics of my SP #150
« on: July 27, 2006, 09:36:27 am »
Speed Demon-  I didn't really "cut" the frame.  I put a cart axle in the rear with a 700 trans.  The front I just welded a piece of box iron in place of the orig axle and put cart spindles on it.  USLMRA don't let you cut the sheetmetal so I had to leave mine stock.  Plus it still kinka looks like it is suppose to!  It is 37 3/4 inches side to side, that way I slide though tech easily!  Engine---28 cid briggs.  Small piston, ARC rod, G-force cam, ported, ARC counter balance weights, ARC flywheel, G-force carb, and 11 hp head.

Creechfan--- Here is a pic of the throttle on the carb,  not real good but that is all I got.  I used a conduit retainer and spring for a go kart, then drilled out the hole on the carb and used a cable swivel to hold the cable to the carb.  Got all that stuff from APS page 147.



The set up on the wheel is a Goldfinger left had throttle for a snowmobile.  It is basicly a bike brake but it has a cool little trigger.  Here is their site.  http://www.fullthrottleinc.com/
If you want one they will sell just the throttle and a cable for $40.  But you have to call and request a "racing lawnmower throttle"  If you don't get it this way it will cost you $100 because it comes with a bunch of stuff that you don't need that is for a sled.  Cool product and nice people to deal with, I highly recomend them.
Hope this helps
Later

2969
Racing Mower Builds / The begining
« on: July 26, 2006, 07:49:39 pm »
Cool,
Sounds like you are on the right track.
No problem on the help, I'll help when I can.
Later

2970
Racing Mower Builds / The begining
« on: July 26, 2006, 05:25:12 pm »
Skeeter,
Paul here, with the red craftsman.
yes the tires are 16-7.5-8 on a 8x8 rim.
The pic you have your axle marked on the side is exactly where I put mine.  But I measured with 16-6.5 tires then switched to the 7.5's after I got it built.  Thought they looked better on the 8 inch rim.  But I got lucky and they fit----barely, I had to roll the lip on the fender under so it wouldn't cut the tire.
My advice is to get your tires mounted and put your axle together and measure from there.  You are right you will never get 4 inches ground clearance with that mower with those tires.  You can't modify the fenders, only move them discreetly, which I did. I jacked the fenders up in the back about 1/4 inch this made a big difference on ride hight.  But you need to have the tires mounted  so you know what shape they will be.  Hope this helps

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