Heymow - Lawnmower Racing Forum
Mower Building / Setup Help => Driveline => Topic started by: mowerracer828 on November 21, 2010, 07:39:43 pm
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hey, i have built a tube chassis mower and i am trying to figure out the drive line, i am wanting to run a centrifigul clutch, what is the best out there? i am on a budget, also will the standard #35 chan hold up, it has a vangaurd 16hp v twin with tillotson carb and some other mods its pretty stout, thanks in advance tyler
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Here are a few that are on apskarting.com I've heard of several people using them. Most will tig weld a pully to it and run a belt set up.
NORAM MINI CUP CLUTCH
NORAM STAR CLUTCH
NORAM ENFORCER CLUTCH
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ok thanks have you heard of the noram 1600 clutch, thanks
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only from the aps website
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is that a decent clutch?
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My pro-x runs #35 chain, and have had any problems. Invest in a chain breaker to do away with the conecting links.
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ok, thanks i saw that noram makes a heavy duty 1" bore 40/41 chain clutch its called the 1600, i just wanted to know if its a good clutch or would the mini cup or star be better, thanks tyler
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I use the Noram Star on my outlaw because it can be mounted inboard to keep the sprocket as close as possible to the side cover...... easier on the crank. I ran the #35 silver chain and #40 Tsubaki chain on my secondary. No abnormal wear or problems all year! I would use this setup again in a heartbeat.
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Yes, get a clutch you can run chain "inboard" with..
Mini cup places chain to end of crank... I used a Mini Cup with 35 on primary with no problems, but next time would prefer chain closer to frame
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Star clutch is the best and most affordable dependable option out there. Holds up well to big hp also.
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ok thanks for the replys, george do you think the 35 chain will hold up the chain wont be very long at all, thanks
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If your going to a ragb I would convert the clutch to belt and use a belt. I did and have NO problems at all. Buy the 18 tooth and a blank pulley from tsc slides right on
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.... Buy the 18 tooth and a blank pulley from tsc slides right on
On the output?
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when you buy the clutch (star) order it with an 18 ttoth bell.
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thanks for the reply i am definently going to put a pulley on the clutch, i have heard that you have to tig the pulley on i really dont have a way to tig it, would it be possible to mig? thanks
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ive miged about 12. just take the bearing out first lerned the hard way . thow little tacks all the way around. then weld solid so it wount go on out of line
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thanks for the reply i am definently going to put a pulley on the clutch, i have heard that you have to tig the pulley on i really dont have a way to tig it, would it be possible to mig? thanks
Yup remove bearings and do very small tacks alternating sides letting it cool some between do this till weld on. OH be sure to press bearing out or it will be ruined.
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ok, thanks i saw that noram makes a heavy duty 1" bore 40/41 chain clutch its called the 1600, i just wanted to know if its a good clutch or would the mini cup or star be better, thanks tyler
I have used it on a modified 16 vanny and gave one to a guy that ran a modified 23hp. He tried to break it and it pulled a wheel on him.
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ok thanks, is it possible to run these clutches with a peerless 700
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I never have but know some that have.
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yea i run mine with 700 so does 95 persent of our club . from mild to wild power they hold up 700 have thier isuse. brass busing weiring out and normal 700 isures
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ok would you still run a 8 on the motor and 5 on the trans as you would with a slip clutch, thanks
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Like I said I have never run this setup with a 700. So what size pulleys will work is or would be guessing on my part. IF i did this that is where I would start!!! But have no clue if it will work.
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yea 8m 5t 6m 4t 5m 4t
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ok, leadslead is the gearing with the sprockets for the axle and trans the same as they would be also, thanks
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8in is a good size for the motor since you you have to overdrive the tranny 2 to 1 to get it to live. For the tranny, Browning makes an adjustable pulley with a 5/8 bore and a max diameter of 4 3/4 in. I used this setup for 2 years with no issues. It makes for easy adjustability to tune for different tracks. I had about a 4 mph window of adjustment. It work great for me as our class was governed @ 3850 rpm.. As per the tranny I had problems with eating up the brass output bushings also until I filed 3 little notches in the thrust part of the bushings to let a little oil in. Had a little oil seepage but never lost another bushing. Hope this helps.
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got a pic of where u filed the brass
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always had good luck with the clutch welding a pully to it ran from 5 to 8 inch on them only had 2 times in 6 years i broke the pully in there 2nd season
i never broke a one pace pully the one's that I broke where the spot welded pully they do work good but after a season they could break at any time
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Sorry I don't have a picture but I'll try to explain. I file 3 little notches with a chainsaw file about .020 in deep on the flange part of the bushing that faces towards the thrust washer and gear inside the tranny. That seems to give a little more lubrication between the output shaft and bronze bushing. It leaks a little bit of oil but no big deal. I used synthetic gear oil with about 20 percent Lucas.