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Messages - Mr Goodwrench

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1
Chassis / Re: Brake problem
« on: April 06, 2011, 08:00:09 am »
Like George says, pressure bleeding is so easy that it"s a no brainer. I made my own and it will bleed anything in seconds and waste very little brake fluid.

2
Chassis / Re: MCP Brake Bleeding
« on: April 06, 2011, 07:54:58 am »
Rooster, to add to this, I blew a brake line once that wasn't tight enough. I think a good idea would be to mark the line with some paint or maybe a small tie wrap to see if it is slipping through the nut. Maybe this would catch a line slipping before disaster strikes.

3
Driveline / Re: clutch
« on: November 28, 2010, 05:02:17 pm »
Sorry I don't have a picture but I'll try to explain. I file 3 little notches with a chainsaw file about .020 in deep on the flange part of the bushing that faces towards the thrust washer and gear inside the tranny. That seems to give a little more lubrication between the output shaft and bronze bushing. It leaks a little bit of oil but no big deal. I used synthetic gear oil with about 20 percent Lucas.

4
Driveline / Re: clutch
« on: November 28, 2010, 08:44:22 am »
8in is a good size for the motor since you you have to overdrive the tranny 2 to 1 to get it to live. For the tranny, Browning makes an adjustable pulley with a 5/8 bore and a max diameter of 4 3/4 in. I used this setup for 2 years with no issues. It makes for easy adjustability to tune for different tracks. I had about a 4 mph window of adjustment. It work great for me as our class was governed @ 3850 rpm.. As per the tranny I had problems with eating up the brass output bushings also until I filed 3 little notches in the thrust part of the bushings to let a little oil in. Had a little oil seepage but never lost another bushing. Hope this helps.




5
Driveline / Re: clutch
« on: November 24, 2010, 07:56:23 am »
I use the Noram Star on my outlaw because it can be mounted inboard to keep the sprocket as close as possible to the side cover...... easier on the crank. I ran the #35 silver chain and #40 Tsubaki chain on my secondary. No abnormal wear or problems all year! I would use this setup again in a heartbeat.

6
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: 20HP vanny cam question
« on: November 23, 2010, 08:01:37 am »
I wouldn't take the balls out. The camshaft is a pathway for pressurized oil. I think you woud loose oil pressure if you removed them. They won't hurt anything in there. Like Ryan said the spring that holds the compression release at cranking rpm doesn't like high rpm so it will likely come out in the first oil change. No big deal at all just makes it a little harder to start.

7
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: 61ci vanguard carb
« on: November 16, 2010, 06:18:17 pm »
Ok,sorry about that Shane was my hired gun. Yes that was on some kind of "pump"gas. Going to run alcohol next year. I'm thinking about starting at around .115 on the main jet.

8
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: 61ci vanguard carb
« on: November 16, 2010, 08:11:30 am »
There is a spot on the carb to drill and tap for the idle screw. I ground the end of the throttle shaft that holds the throttle leaver on and then replaced it with the correct one. The massive size of this carb is worth trying to figure out how to mount it. I'm still learning about modifying this carb but am pretty happy with it so far. I haven't touch the pilot jets and only drilled the main jets to .067 in. This tractor runs pretty stout. It won the outlaw class at US Open and ran 2nd at the All American in the outlaw twin. This carb has amazing potential.

9
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: 61ci vanguard carb
« on: November 10, 2010, 02:03:14 pm »
The engine this carb fits is a 613400. In the briggs parts list it quotes the carb part # as 842097 but that # changes up to 844172. You will have to adapt the throttle shaft to work for your configuration, but that's no problem for a lawnmower racer. I mounted mine on a custom fabbed intake made from 1.25 in. exhaust tubing. I wish I would of used 1.375 tubing as the throttle blades barely open inside the 1.25 tube. Hmmmm maybe next year I'll hang 2 of these on the side of the Vanny and switch to methanol.

10
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: 61ci vanguard carb
« on: November 10, 2010, 08:54:31 am »
I have this carb on my WOO outlaw. I replace 2 HL380's And now I absolutely love this carb. It's on a pretty stout Vanny. I tried it right out of the box and it was ok but since then all I did was drill the main jets to .067 in. and filed the throttle shaft flat for a little more airflow. Did I say I LOVE this carb. I twist it to 10000 rpm all day long and it pulls like a mule. May have a little to do with the magic of a good set of Ryker cly heads.

11
Chassis / Re: Front spindles for brakes
« on: November 08, 2010, 07:59:15 am »
Another option is to place a bead of weld where the key needs to be and then mill it into the shape of a key. I did this on my outlaw and had no problems all year.

12
Chassis / Re: Question on Super Mod offset
« on: October 19, 2010, 02:35:35 pm »
The amount of rear tire stagger and too low of left rear tire pressure are your enemies for turning right.

13
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Nikki carb jets
« on: August 23, 2010, 08:10:12 pm »
The number on the jet is the size in metric. Just convert to inches. I beleive a 100 jet converts to .040 inches.

14
Briggs OHV & Vanguard / Re: Does anyone know?
« on: August 16, 2010, 03:30:08 pm »
The aluminum push rod is on the exhaust side in all the briggs parts list. I wonder if it has something to do with thermal expansion and a tight .004 valve lash.

15
Chassis / Re: Cross Weights?
« on: June 22, 2010, 07:16:49 pm »
Doesn't that only change camber? KPI is fixed within the spindle.

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