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Topics - MadNax

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Briggs Flathead / Another Walbro Carb Question
« on: March 04, 2008, 08:23:50 pm »
I have a Walbro carb from a fairly new 12.5 - 28 flathead. I have to open the needle about as far as it will go to get it running good. There is a ball stuck in where the Pilot jet should be.....Is there any way to open up the low speed circuit on that type carb??

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Racing Mower Builds / First Try.........
« on: December 18, 2007, 07:20:07 pm »
Don't know if this is going to be a full build, but I will try to keep the camera with me as I go along. This mower started out to be a new drag mower, but I decided to make it a sportsman/SP. It's all yer fault SKEETER!!!! I just finished the front axle. I'm calling it "The MadNax-el"..... :D Soon as UPS runs, I'll get to work on the back end.










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Chassis / Wheelbase and Handling
« on: December 15, 2007, 08:42:31 am »
I am presently involved in my first legal (sportsman class) build per ARMA rules. In the rules it states 39" unaltered minimum.....that to me means the axles must be in the stock location, no shorter that 39". Then on the Pro X rules they state "45" MAXIMUM on a pan style chassis"....which would suggest that the tendency is to make them longer. I have a pair of old Ford mowers that are unusally long....50" stock. The question for you guys that have been at this a while is.........Which is better: long wheelbase or short wheelbase???

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Driveline / Peerless 801 Transaxle
« on: November 11, 2007, 05:19:20 pm »
I am trying put a mower together to run SP/sportsman class. I am not having much luck finding a 700, but I do have 2 good 801-020c peerless transaxles. I have mower already set up with a jack shaft. I was thinking of putting a solid 3/4 axle in the 801 per the "Squid suggestion" and giving it a shot. I have a sleeve that is keyed and is 1 1/4 OD, so with the McMaster-Carr axle, I could mount brakes using standard hardware. This is strictly for local level racing.  Will this set-up get me in the game? or should I wait for a 700?

My concern is that a 3/4" axle will just be too weak....And the input speeds on the transaxle are very high. It seems most have moved toward the 700's.......

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Post your Pics! / Another New Drag Mower
« on: November 04, 2007, 09:15:59 am »
Thought you guys might be interested in my new creation. It has a 28 OHV pretty much built to max. Got a ARMA chapter starting close to me here....might have to switch over. The ol' was built pretty close to US specs....it won't be too hard to convert. Trouble is I just turned 50!!!! How old is TOO OLD????







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Briggs Flathead / Dogbone or Counterweights?
« on: October 30, 2007, 09:16:12 pm »
Another opinion question on the 28 flat...It has a cam, port work, carb mods, little higher compression......stock bottom end. I know I am on borrowed time, so I am at least going to put in an ARC bogbone. I also have two good crankshafts that have the removable counterweights.....so it would be easy to go to the brass ARC counterweights. I would love to get rid of the big brick altogether, but would like to hear from those who have run ARC counterweights with stock rod & piston. I did some digging in here and found a post or two that favorable results with this combo.......Any bad results out there???

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Briggs Flathead / Stock Flywheel on a 28 Flat
« on: October 30, 2007, 04:55:05 pm »
I had my flywheel off of my mildly modified 28 flathead and noticed that one of the magnets looked loose. I took a screwdriver, tried to move it and it came off quite easily. The rest of them were stuck better, but they all came off with not much trouble. I was planning on running it without the magnets, but wanted to get some input from those who may have more experience running stock flywheels. I am running this engine to about 5500 RPM max. I searched the site and only found the "safe" 3600 RPM limit. I would like some real world experience from guys running 5000 - 5500 RPM with stock flywheels (I know there are some doing so). It's going to hard to talk my wife into ANOTHER billet flywheel!!!!

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Post your Pics! / New Drag Mower
« on: May 22, 2007, 11:55:02 pm »
Here's a look at my new drag mower. It's a Murray, 28 CID flatty with some Don G. goodies.

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Briggs OHV & Vanguard / The Right Mods
« on: January 09, 2007, 07:38:50 pm »
OK guys.....I have a 14 HP OHV 280 series Briggs to use drag racing. I need to know the best bang for buck mods to make this thing a screamer. My thoughts are to go for the cam, valve springs, and carb. The flywheel weight might be a good thing for drags. I am not afraid to spend SMART dollars.

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Driveline / What Kind of Belts????
« on: January 04, 2007, 06:24:54 pm »
I am getting close to complete on the driveline of my new drag mower...........Ready for the belts. I am running a jackshaft setup. The pulleys are new ones I ordered from Pheonix. I think they are type A. Are plain automotive belts the way to go? What brand holds up??

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Driveline / Brakes on a Foote
« on: December 24, 2006, 10:27:13 am »
Building a Drag Mower.....Looking for a way to install improved brake set-up. I was thinking of using an Airheart mechanical kart caliper (I have used these in the past and they are great little units and fairly cheap). Problem is, I am using a Foote transaxle-3/4 axles and stock wheels. I saw a set-up in the forum here where someone made a disc hub out of a sprocket. That looked like a good way to go, but I don't like the idea of cutting a keyway slot in the axle (you lose 20% strength, can't afford that with 3/4 axle). I don't like the idea of depending on the setscrews either. Thought about welding the hub to the axle. I cut on the axle a bit with a file and it doesn't seen to be super hardened......Has anybody tried welding to an axle???

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Driveline / Spring Tension on Clutch
« on: December 23, 2006, 11:12:05 am »
I am in the middle of a Drag Mower build and just got the clutch about done. Question is.....How much spring tension do you need????? That is, How big of a spring. I have some of the old mower springs and they seem way too strong. Here is pic of the clutch. I thought about using a long threaded rod out the back so I could adjust the tension from outside.

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