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Topics - swbeebe

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1
Coffee Shop / John Deere GT242 Kawasaki regulator pinout
« on: May 01, 2013, 11:50:49 am »
Hello,
I am re-powering an old lawn tractor with a Kawasaki FC420V-ES10 motor. The motor did not come with any of the wiring or the regulator needed to charge the battery. I can source one on e-bay but suspect it connects to the original wire harness. (The regulator is 6 pin and the wires exiting the mower have less on the connector.) Would anyone have a schematic? Or know the pinout of the regulator? Also I am not to familiar with the starter on this unit. Is the solenoid attached to the starter? (So I don't need an external one) I believe the motor came from a John Deere GT242. I can't seem to locate a free service manual, and have a "basic wire diagram" but does not show how it's pinned out. Just where the connectors hookup. If I knew what the AC voltage and current leaving the stator, I could go from there with a custom regulator setup. But seeing there are just too many unknowns, I can't just build a circuit to properly charge the battery. (Would hate to just slap a couple diodes in it and over volt the battery.) Thus why I wanted the regulator pinout. Thank you for your time.

2
Driveline / Removing input shaft bearings on a peerless 600
« on: January 24, 2013, 12:40:34 pm »
I was wondering how to remove the input shaft bearings in a 600 series transaxle. I don't have a press, but was wondering if there was a hand tool or trick to remove them, and what direction they come out. Thanks in advance.

3
Driveline / Couple of Peerless 600 Questions
« on: October 01, 2012, 11:35:42 am »
First, is there a master list of all the different axle lengths and support tubes that are available? Reason being is I have 3 of the 600 series and all 3 have different length axles and tubes. (2 are 600-639, and the other is 600-612A) Also if I went with a longer axle, would I be able to just use a pipe with 3/4" inside dia. as a sleeve to reinforce? I read on here about it, but it did not go into much detail, like do you need to add thrust washers or anything where it may contact the end of the tube? I was worried about the axle bending where it leaves the support tube.

Second, can you just use RTV to seal the case? Or should I get the gaskets?

And third, locking the diff. Is there any trick besides using a piece of 3/4" drill rod. I don't have access to a machine shop, so adding a keyway is not an option for me. I was almost thinking about adding a piece of square tube between them, or welding the spider gears and then grinding them down like the locker kits I have seen for the other transaxles. I have not measured to see how much room I have for extra stuff in there either. I figure I would ask before trying to re-invent the wheel.

4
Other Engines / Kawasaki FC420V Exhaust Header
« on: September 25, 2012, 03:23:53 pm »
What are you guys using for the exhaust header on these engines? The stock header pipe is about 40 bucks... A bit much just to chop up.

5
Kohler Engines / K341 Coil
« on: August 16, 2012, 11:35:43 am »
I acquired a Wheel horse C160 with a plow, and 3 mower decks in various shape. (One works) for 65 bucks. I wanted to get the engine running, and supposedly it ran before it was parked but is missing the coil now. Does anyone have a recommendation on the coil? Are the cheap E-bay coils any good? Or is there a Napa cross maybe? Not sure if the thing is any good, so I did not want to invest a lot of money into it just to find out otherwise. Thanks in advance.

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Coffee Shop / John Deere GT262 Deck pulley part number or manual
« on: May 23, 2012, 10:19:03 am »
I am helping a friend fix his GT262 grass cutter, and he needs an idler pulley on the mower deck, but cannot seem to find it in the exploded views searching online. There are 2 idler pulleys, the one he needs is the stationary one. If anyone could get me a part number or size, or send me a .pdf of a manual, it would be great. Thank you in advance!

7
Coffee Shop / Bench Grinder
« on: February 28, 2012, 10:19:56 am »
Hello, I was going to shop for a new bench grinder, but I'm not sure if I want a 5 inch or 6 inch one. My girlfriend bought me one from Tractor supply about a year ago, however it was a 5 inch and has a 1/4HP continous duty rating. This thing stalls out VERY easy. (almost worthless) My 4" Mikita angle grinder has way more power then this thing does. I was thinking about just replacing the grinding wheels with wire wheels, and just use it as a polisher unit. My question would be, in looking for a grinder what would be a good rating for the motor, (I would assume 1/2 hp or higher) and what would be the difference in the 5 inch Vs. the 6 inch. (Besides the 1" difference) Is there an advantage to the 6 inch besides more rotating mass? What does everyone else use? TIA

8
Post your Pics! / Local club mower prepping to be ARMA legal.
« on: February 22, 2012, 10:03:17 am »
So this should be a long one...

I picked up this mower at the begining of winter, and figured it would be a good starting point to make an ARMA legal mower. I was originally going to go with US rules, but there are more ARMA groups around me then US. This was a mower built to local club rules. I bought it for 150 bucks and it came with a working Kaw FC420V engine, a tachometer, has what looks like 2 piece kart wheels and hubs in the front. It has a Peerless 600 series transaxle. (And only has stock brakes)  I have no idea what model mower this was or if all the body parts even go together. I have seen some similar to it, but not quite the same. Not sure if the others where just different years and that may have been the difference.

With that being said, here come the pictures....

This is how I got it. It has been through a few hands before me, and all the paint and tacky hooters stuff and such has to go! The nerf bars look like a good way to break your legs too. The bumpers don't look legal either.









Right off the bat I have some concerns.
The engine mounting area has been cut up, and it looks like there is a good crack in the frame where the axle was mounted to.





Next would be removing the deck. All I can say is I would never want to be under this thing in a wreck. I can see so many ways this mower would hurt someone.



It had minimal frame supporting.



So I got the whole thing stripped down, and figured I would have to do that much just to get new paint on it. There are more pictures in the photobucket, feel free to take a look and maybe help me decide if I should get a new front half of the frame and go from there, or if it could be saved. I would have posted more thumbs, but running a little short on time this morning.


9
Other Engines / Kawasaki FC420V-ES10 Carb Solenoid
« on: July 01, 2011, 04:09:50 pm »
I was wondering if there is an adjustable needle or jet for this carb to replace the Carb solenoid? Or should I just leave it for safety? Thanks in advance.

10
Non-Affiliated Races / Cincinnatus NY Field Days 2011 Track Events
« on: June 24, 2011, 11:10:27 am »
Just in case anyone wants to know.... I don't know much about the event, but here is the link and some brief info I found. If anyone has input about it please post. It did not mention if it's affiliated with USLMRA or ARMA. Thanks in advance.

http://ithaca.craigslist.org/rvs/2458606673.html

It's South of Syracuse, and East of Cortland NY.

500 ft track. All classes running for info call 607-745-0275

Rte 26
Cincinnatus, NY 13140

Cincinnatus Field Days 2011 Track Events

Sled & ATV Drag Races

Friday July 1st
Registration 4-5PM
Drags Start at 6pm
Sponsored by
Doug's Powersports

Lawn Mower Races
Saturday July 2nd

Registration 12 noon
Racing Starts at 1pm
Sponsored by
Grasscar Mowersports

Brookfield Tractor Pulls

Saturday July 2nd
Pulling Starts at 7pm

Sunday July 3rd
Pulling Starts at 11am

11
Briggs Flathead / Date code question
« on: June 23, 2011, 01:50:03 pm »
I was wondering how the date code breaks down and how it relates to the IPL. My question being if I have a date code of: 96041759 then to me it would mean it was made on 04/17/1996. When looking at the parts list it has notes based on date codes. For example it would say: Part number xxxx (Used after code date 09041600). The way I would read that it would seem like anything made after 04/16/2009 would use this part. Or would the 96041759 date code be "after" the one mentioned? (Because it is a higher number)

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Coffee Shop / Get well Tommy Daniels.
« on: June 20, 2011, 10:36:55 am »

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Driveline / Parking brakes
« on: May 23, 2011, 01:46:48 pm »
Was wondering what everyone is using for a parking brake? Anything? I read that some people use the stock brake for that. I'm planning on using fluid brakes as most do, but was not planning on keeping the stock brakes.

14
Tires / Stock hub and rim strength question
« on: May 13, 2011, 02:08:52 pm »
Hello, I have a pair of factory hubs with bolt on rims, and I was wondering how well they hold up. I know when you have the stock rim that is just keyed you need to reinforce it, otherwise it will break the center out. Any reinforcing needed on the stock bolt on style rims?

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Coffee Shop / Painting plastics
« on: April 20, 2011, 12:39:02 pm »
I have a question about painting plastics. I currently paint anything and everything with a rattle can. I was looking into getting a HVLP spray gun and try to learn how to paint with that. Now here at the TV shop I use MEK (Methyl ethel ketone) to surface prep plastics before gluing them. It's kind of acts like the primer you put on PVC pipes before the joint cement. Now for painting plastics at home, I use FUSION for plastics from Krylon. I see on the label, the only difference between "normal" spray paint and the Fusion paint is the Fusion says it contains Ketones. Would you be able to add a small amount of MEK to the paint mix for a HVLP sprayer to make the paint bond better to plastics? Or would it have compatibility issues with the water based paints? Would I have to try a solvent based paint? Or do they make a special additive to add to the paint to make it bond better with plastics? Figured someone on here might know the answer...

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