Ok, I really need some help here.  Earlier I posted about my cassette weldments warping after I had welded them in.  I am doing something wrong here.  I tried welding my 3/4 thinwall tubing in to the bottom of the chassis and I can watch the sheet metal warp around it, along with the tubing actually starting to become deflected.  Maybe my voltage setting is too high on my mig flux core welder?  I have 1 through 4 settings.  Maybe I am not tacking in the right areas/sequences.  Maybe my welds are too long or not spaced properly?  I don't want to continue experimenting on my project build without some sort of feedback about this issue I am having.  Should I tack from the center of the piece, then do the corners?  I looked at George's new build for 07 and he has nice long welds that aren't causing a bend on the chassis.  Also, my welds are like half his length and I am warping!  HELP!  

Hey everyone, I bought a set of EC bead lock 8x8 rims, and I need to drill the valve stem.  I havent decided whether or not I will run tubes or not, so where should I drill the hole for the valve stem?  I was thinking right in the dead center of the rim but I have never used tubes before so I don't know if the tube valve stem typically comes out at this part.  I want to make sure I can run either way and not screw myself by drillin in the wrong spot!  thanks

Hey, I have been researching these flywheels and starter for the 28 cube briggs.  I went on yahoo and typed in the briggs number 808726 (high torque starter)  what came up was a starter part number 808498 from a well established ebay company, which costs $90 bucks reman.  They have 4 different views of this starter, and it looks to be identicle to the 808726.  Have you guys seen/heard of this starter before?  I personally have never had the either starter in my hands, but they do give specs for starter pinion and amount of teeth (15).  Let me know if I stumbled upon a big money saver for us all!  by the way, they give a few different equal part numbers for this "808498" I speak of.  And the John deere part number is LG808726!

13 is the biggest.12,12.5 & 13 are the same.

So what are you're opinions regarding the synchro balanced I/C versus other versions of 28's?

Hey George,
I was wondering how I could raise the left spindle up or down for the weight distribution.  I know the EC front axle is welded to the frame on your builds.  I placed a big order for a bunch of parts from EC last week, and I think you are building my front axle this week.  Maybe there is an adjustment I am unaware of with your axle set up???

most of the 28 flathead and ohv parts interchange...the 11 horse engine is prolly a 25'' engine, with a different block and crank (shorter Stroke), hang on to the honda, good engines to build for f/x style classes.....

Hey there,
I have a 28 ohv but I want to race in sportman class.  I need to get a 28 flatty but, I wanted to know if I purchased a billet flywheel would it be able to fit on both flathead and OHV???     

So, I am a newbie here so if this question has been answered previously I am sorry to waste your time.  I saw a post recently by a member who wanted to know why rear engines were not allowed in IMOW.  I can understand about the safety issues one might have with little experience and a rear engine with not much protection from a front engine mower.  However, I would love to get involved by starting out with this type of mower.  The AP class sounds like tons of fun, but I have no racing experience so this would be a foolish mistake to try and do this (plus I am sure I would irritate other people off with my inexperienced driving). I was wondering if people have been kicking around the idea of starting a rear engine IMOW type of class any time soon.  Have you guys heard anything regarding this???  -Alex-