Heymow - Lawnmower Racing Forum
Engine Help => Briggs OHV & Vanguard => Topic started by: Alliesman on October 26, 2018, 10:39:47 pm
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hey guys, i came upon the racing mower stuff while looking to build my son a go kart , i had a thought hey i have a mower im not using i can do it with that, but then saw some videos on swapping pulleys and gaining more speed. so, sense then i have been trying to gather information on how to make my existing mower faster, so for starters, how do i get the pulleys off with out having a welder?, also what size carb is on a 14 hp i/c briggs? and how much bigger can i go with a stock engine with out over carbing? also will the drive pully fit the crank and vise versa?
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Regular deer mech here.
Can't give you much help but why do you need a welder to get a pulley off?
Is it stuck?
Wd40 and leave it overnight get a big crowbar and whack it into submission with a hammer of your choice.
Never had a pulley outside of a deck that wouldn't get off
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i have seen meny videos on youtube and this is my first ever project so i searched how to remove them, that's mostly what i came up with, do you know if the trans pully will fit the crank?
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Just take them off and see if one fits the other.
If not these are really easy to get by at your local shop as the dimensions are pretty standard.
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alright , is there a performance carb.
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First, IF YOU VALUE YOUR LIFE, DO NOT just pulley swap it. A stock riding mower is built to go 5 mph, so that is why everyone on this forum have all changed a bunch of parts out to kart stuff. You cannot switch your current pulleys, and nor should you if you plan on leaving it stock. It will do around high 30s to low 40s with those sizes. Make sure that your transmission is a manual, and remove reverse (lever going to the trans case that you can see moving as you shift the mower, and reverse is because it will break and break the case). You would be safe to do that if you did some basic things for safety. For example: go kart front end, better brakes (a pit bike brake is usually the cheapest option for decent braking), tether kill switch, actually putting gear oil and a locker in the trans, and maybe smaller diameter rear tires for better stability.
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here's what im working with, first the fwd/rev lever is in the middle of the frame in front of my seat the 1-5/prk brake is on the right fender beside the seat, i am doing reseearch on kart stuff from brakes to steering, as well as changing the electrical system over to kart , installing a speedo and tach , i am on here to gather as much info as i can to have fun and do it safely , believe me i don't wanna goto heaven early i have a family
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here's what im working with, first the fwd/rev lever is in the middle of the frame in front of my seat the 1-5/prk brake is on the right fender beside the seat, i am doing reseearch on kart stuff from brakes to steering, as well as changing the electrical system over to kart , installing a speedo and tach , i am on here to gather as much info as i can to have fun and do it safely , believe me i don't wanna goto heaven early i have a family
http://www.heymow.com/index.php/topic,1613.0.html
Check this thread out.
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700 is the best for racing, but for your use you could use a peerless transaxle. the mst 205/206 ones have worked the best for guys running 3/4 transaxles in my club
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here's a pic of the stock axle/trans
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Yeah, sorry to say, but that is a vari drive. Not good for anything really. Have to run a manual to not run into a bunch of problems
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can i swap out the diff and how do i know if its a manual trans