Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - Zippy 13N

Pages: [1] 2
1
Kohler Engines / V-twin Valve Lash
« on: April 10, 2016, 06:34:15 pm »
Is anyone running a stock cam with solid lifters?  If so what lash is a good starting point?  Thanks!

2
Honda and Clone Engines / GX340
« on: August 22, 2013, 10:38:59 pm »
Ok I cant find much about the 340 so ill ask!  I have not messed with many Hondas and never a single cylinder Honda.  I have a 340 now that is in GREAT condition!  My question is, what is different about the 340 and the 390 other than 50cc's.  (ex. Is the 340 the same bore with a different stroke or is it a different bore and stroke?)  The reason I ask is because the 340 I have, has a tapered PTO and I am going to change the crank (if I can find one) to a straight shaft to use for racing.  I know I know people want to go bigger CC most of the time BUT this is going on a starter ride.  Its for a girl that has no experience so the size is not an issue I just want to know what parts I can get/use that will work for this motor.  When she gets experience I will add more power but power isn't the issue at this point.  Thanks guys!

3
Briggs Flathead / Kick Back
« on: February 03, 2013, 11:48:58 pm »
Ok fella's.  I have a new engine that i have built.  It is a 50 cube opposed with billet rods and an arc flywheel.  I fired it up for the first time friday and it ran and sounded great but after a few minutes it got a little bit of a pop in it.  So i changed the timing about 2* and tried starting it again.  It fired up and of course still popping so right before i went to kill the engine the key stripped out ([straight key]my fault didn't have the nut tight enough  :bash: ).  I took the valve covers off and check the valves on the cylinder that was popping and the exhaust valve was way to tight.  Checked all of them when I was assembling it but i guess i used the wrong feeler to messure the gap.  Anyway thats not my issue, just said all of that to complete the story.

My problem is that after church today it was so nice outside i rolled the mower outside for the first time since i got it back together after paint and was going to start the motor back up.  Put another key in it and torqued the flywheel down tight this time. (I set the timing back 2* to where it had been before.)    I had just put the fuel tank back on it so the lines were empty so to save on the starter i pored a tiny bit of gas in the carb.  Hit the starter then the ignition and it fired right up just for a second then died.  The filter now had some gas in it so I started to crank it again and it kicked back and sheared my plastic starter gear.  Soooooooo I set the timing all the way to the negative side of the scale and put another starter gear on and started to crank it again and boom stripped that gear out too! and yes i took the flywheel nut off to make sure the key didn't shear.  I quit to go get ready for church and now ive been thinking about it and I don't have any idea why its doing that.  The key i put in there was an old one but it wasn't wore bad or anything and i wouldn't thank that it would put the timing out that bad any way.  I'm going to get a brand new key tomorrow but i thought i might would ask for some advice on here before i try it again.  And im going to just pull the plugs and check the timing by turning it over with the starter.  If its not in the timing i don't know where else to look.  I wasn't kicking back at all friday and all at once it started it.

Thanks, Derrick.

4
Briggs Flathead / Oppy Carb
« on: November 21, 2012, 12:57:46 am »
Just thought I may spread a little knowledge that I have learned from working with the oppy carbs.  Now obviously they do not work good once you get fast enough to throw the fuel away from the main jet (which is on the wrong side).  I know a lot of people solve this by turning them around backwards but the onlt problem then is the linkage so here is the solution I have came up with, and had lots of success.



http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/Zippy_13N/media/IMG_0140.jpg.html

This new photo bucket has got me all messed up so I will just put a direct link under it so if you want to view it bigger you can


Some may have already done this but I haven't seen anything about it.  Hopefully this will help somebody!

5
Briggs Flathead / Tillotson on an oppy
« on: October 29, 2012, 08:29:50 pm »
Does anyone have a part number for a tillotson carb to bolt up on an oppy?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks Derrick

6
Racing Mower Builds / New "Turf Stock"
« on: October 16, 2012, 11:24:27 pm »
This is the newest mower I am building to run at our track in arkansas.  The class is called "Turf Stock".  Its a really fun class because it is from what I have read kind of like a limited super mod.  So here are some pictures.  Its not completely finished but it's getting there.  Gotta clean up some lines on it to make it look smooth finish up some other details and paint it but this is what I have so far.



7
Briggs Flathead / Pistons
« on: April 04, 2012, 11:10:18 pm »
Ok I was reading some post about the 31 pistons in an oppy and I plan on doing this in the near future.  Right now i am running a 42 crank with 40 rods.  I was going to ask my question on another post but it was really old.  Anyway.  Is the wrist pin on the 31 in the same spot as the one on the regular pistons?  I know .050 is needed to take off of the stock ones, so do you take off the same amount on the 31's.

8
Briggs Flathead / Dual carb intake
« on: March 21, 2012, 01:00:26 am »
Ok I have a stock Intake that has been cut to house two carbs.  None of the welds leak but I did have a bad gasket that was leaking when I started it.  I don't know if that was my problem but the motor would not run right on the two carbs.  A lot was probably tuning on them but I just need someones help on this.  I am going to try and post a pic if I can figure it out.

Thanks, Derrick
<center>   
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x468/Zippy_13N/?action=view&amp;current=1332305259.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x468/Zippy_13N/th_1332305259.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" >[/url]
</center>


9
Briggs Flathead / Rods/heads
« on: March 13, 2012, 10:51:13 pm »
Ok I have read several different post and I am still not a hundred percent certain about this.  I know that the trow of the 46 CID is longer than the 42 giving it a longer stroke and the rods are shorter than the 42. So my question is how much shorter are they and if possible how much would have to be shoved off the piston to make the 42 rods work in the 46.  Or are they "way" too long.

Second question is which heads are the best to use on a 46. I have read several different post about this and I have a 40, 42, and 46 and I was just woundering which head out of the 3 would be the best to run on my 46.

10
Tires / Wheel studs
« on: October 25, 2011, 02:08:54 pm »
Do any of you have trouble breaking wheel studs on a 3 hole cart wheel? One of mine on the right rear keep breaking or backing out.

11
Briggs Flathead / Idle
« on: July 24, 2011, 01:09:31 am »
I have a 46 in. Oppy with only slight mods. It has a stock carb but it will not idle unless the choke is about half way on. I have cleaned It a couple of times and it still doesn't want to idle with tha choke off. Just gonna see if anybody else had any ideas I'm sure someone has had this problem thanks.

12
Briggs Flathead / Fuel question from an old post
« on: April 18, 2011, 01:31:25 pm »
Ok i have been reading a post about pro's and con's of racing fuel in an old topic and i was gonna ask it on there but it told me it was too old and to start a new one and people were saying they were running ethanol.  I dirt race and our engine builder says in classes where you have to run ethanol you do not want ethanol to run mid grade or premium gas and everybody else that races in those classes say the same thing and they dont have that much compression either.  They say it is something to do with clogging the carb and its worse for the engine than gas without ethanol?  Im not wanting to run racing gas but im thinking that premium would be better for the engine in the long run.

13
Driveline / Fluids
« on: April 11, 2011, 10:58:38 pm »
What kind of fluid/Grease do you guys run in your transaxles i have a 820 and i kno it come with grease in it so is it best to keep using grease or to switch to a gear oil?

14
Briggs Flathead / Fuel Problems
« on: March 17, 2011, 01:31:45 pm »
I have a briggs opposed that runs like a top but wen it gets warmed up it will not take gas. when you give it fuel it starts dieing like it is running out of fuel.  Idk what is causing it but im going to put a new carb. and fuel pump on it.  It had a 4 screw fuel pump but it died one day and i thought it stopped pumping so i put a 3 screw pump on it but i later found out that the way i had the fuel tank mounted, just to get it running, the gas was going away from the hole.  I think that the pump isn't strong enough because it came with a 4 screw pump so i am going to change it tonight and try it but i was going to see if anybody else has had this problem.  It has a 2 into 1 headed system with no muffler so i think it could possibly be not enough back pressure but the headers are pretty long.

15
Briggs Flathead / Coils
« on: February 27, 2011, 10:30:26 pm »
I seen on here in one section about an electronic ignition where the people were talking about putting vehicle like Ford and GM coils on there engine how do you do that? And on a twin

Pages: [1] 2
anything