Topic: Craftsman canadian build

[eLUP]

now i've gotten alittle more progress... i've partially finished painting the hood and fenders... dont know what to put in the middle of the red though...


oh and i dont know why, but the grill isnt red, its silver/chrome but my camera made it look that way...

and i also have recieved the parts that i ordered from BMI karts


the order consists of:

spindles and brackets
rear hubs
foot throttle
throttle kit
bearings and hangers
#40 chain
#40 sprocket and hub
brake caliper
brake disc and hub
steering shaft kit
steering block
1" rear axle

                  Eric Lupton
so hopefully this build will really be picking up soon... 

[Wheelhorseracer]

I will always say that you shouldn't run a mechanical brake. I cooked mine so bad I couldn't stop..

I think hydraulic should be mandatory in all classes.. They heat up then don't disengage.

My own personal experience. Others might make them last

[eLUP]

yeah i was debating bout getting hydraulic brakes... that might and probably will be an upgrade soon... thats also why i bought the disc that was setup fro hydraulic brakes...

... but was the mechanical brake you had from princess auto? cuz that ones alot smaller than this brake... just wondering...

thanks eric lupton...

oh and btw is there anything else other than the 1" axle that should be upgraded?? again just wondering...   

[Wheelhorseracer]

I run a 1 1/4 Chrome Moly axle I got from Ryan at Ryker Racing .. I bent 4 1 inch axles last year. I'm not going through that this year. And the chrome moly axle can be straightened.

Yes that is a PA brake. I still used the PA disc with a hydraulic brake after I upgraded. it worked find.. but did get into a bit of fade. That's why I made a vented disc this year.

[eLUP]

yeah that sounds pretty good... i'll probably be doing some upgrading after this year... but for now i'm just gonna stick with what i have.
and i just cut the rear humps out of the frame so ill be able to weld and install the hangers and axle cassettes... will post pics soon! 

[Wheelhorseracer]

That's a really nice brake disc you have.. nice and light.. you might not have any issues since the disc should keep things cool enough for ya..

I killed mine when I was leading... I just was too hard on them..

The paint came out nice... what did you use for paint?

[eLUP]

to be truly honest its just dupli-color spray paint, still need to clear coat it though... but i just did as everyone else said: base, colour(s) and then clear... and i thought it turned out fairly good, and i think some nice company decals i be would make it look pretty cool... oh and i still need my number (24) lol... but thanks!  a tiny bit more progress...

... since this frame had a rounded bubble shape where the stock axle was mounted i had to cut that out and im gonna weld in a piece of 1/8" think plate steel...




... progressing slowly... lol                      thanks Eric Lupton

[Wheelhorseracer]

You should check the rules, the mod rules state that you can not cut into the frame for the axle. It must be mounted under the factory chassis.

If you cut that out you might have made junk out of that chassis..

[Dylan]

uhhmm... i cant remember but i think you will be good and you weld your steel in.. BUT it has to be mounted below the frame since in mod you have to have the axel in the original location and you can NOT cut into the frame... what i did to mine was mounted my bearings to angle iron, and then made my axel about 1/8" under the frame.. squared it all up.. tacked it.. cheaked it again and then welded it up

[eLUP]

well i wouldnt be able to lower the rear end if i didnt cut into the chassis due to the bubble



... so id have no other way to lower the rear other than tire sizes?? cuz i have the stock axle location marked...

[Wheelhorseracer]

It doesn't matter.. that is the rule and it's up to you to adapt.. I guarantee that if you show up to a SOLTRA race for mod.. they will put you into super-mod unless you fix that..

The rule clearly states that you can not cut the chassis.. and the axle has to be under the chassis pan in the stock location..

You should have talked to their tech guy before you started cutting..Quote from 2009 Soltra Rules:

11. Tractors may be lowered by way of;
(a) A fabricated front axle.
(b) Rear trans-axles, and live axles, if equipped, can have spacers and/or brackets removed, but must be re-mounted, solidly, in original location on chassis, making sure chassis sits on top of mounts.
(c) And/or wheel and tire size. Must have a minimum 15” tire on rear.

[eLUP]

well i am old enough to racer super mod...  so maybe then... cuz i have no idea how anyone would adapt with that kind of flare out in the frame without cutting it...

[white54]

eLUP,a modified tractor in SOLTRA cannot have the frame cut like you did in the picture.You must build the tractor on the original frame uncut.If the frame won't work you must use another.A new member must be 18 to race in super modified and be approved by the tech commity.The 2009 rules are on the SOLTRA site.Any questions contact the people listed there.B Alexander tech.

[Dylan]

im not sure if you would be allowed.. but cut off the bubble, and weld some plate to the frame..but making it so that its the as if the bubble was there.. just instead of the bubble it would be flat.? understand? haha

[Wheelhorseracer]

This mower has some good power now... The super mod flathead I ran last year.. you should see this tractor in the winners circle this year..