Author Topic: HP and break in question  (Read 1963 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline benfield_boy

  • Mow-Forum Junkie
  • ***
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: 6
  • Gender: Male
    • View Profile
HP and break in question
« on: August 17, 2008, 03:15:22 AM »
 OK the first thing I want to know is... I just received a g-team cam in the mail that I plan on puting in a motor. What I want to know is, how much of a HP increase am I looking at?
   I also want a guest-a-meant on how much HP my motor will be puting out. Below are all the mods the motor will have in it:
 * A good port job to the ports
 * Port work to the piece of the carb that bolts to the block (walbro)
 * K&N filter W/ G-Team air filter adaptor
 * Oil relieves
 * G-Team cam
 * 11 HP head
 * OHV rod
 * Stock flywheel (I know shame shame)
 * 5* flywheel advanced timing

     For my second question I would like some advice on the break in process (if any) I should take with the motor once the cam and rod is put in. I am thinking just put regular oil in it and let it idle very low for about an hour.
               Thanks for reading this long post!

NEVER DOUBT YOURSELF!!! .....................ANYTHING is Possible.

Offline George Herrin

  • aka SUPERMAN
  • Superman
  • Highly Mowtivated
  • *
  • Posts: 17789
  • Karma: 102
  • Gender: Male
  • I am going to Race Every Race like its my last one
    • View Profile
    • BTMRA Home/Forum An Independant Club.
Re: HP and break in question
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2008, 06:47:39 AM »
Personally I think this is a question more suited for your parts supplier....
George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!

Offline cycloneracer

  • Easy Parcheesy!!!!!!!
  • Global Moderator
  • Highly Mowtivated
  • *****
  • Posts: 4104
  • Karma: 37
  • Gender: Male
  • Easy Parcheesy!!!!!!!
    • View Profile
Re: HP and break in question
« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2008, 07:12:37 AM »
What have you done with the synchro balance?  I'd do something with that so you don't break any of your expensive parts.

For the HP.  Good question.  With out putting it on a dyno, it is just a guess.

Break in.  I woldn't let it run for an hour, but run it in your mower and make some easy test laps.  Run the engine at different RPM's to seat the rings.  As far as the regular oil vs synthetic for break in.  I've always broke in all my engines with full sythetic and never had any problems.

Most important thing is to lube everything when assembling and keep everything clean!


Paul Krueger

****2017 USLMRA FXT points Champion****

#150 Worlds First "sidewinder" FX (now dismantled)

#150 FXT  Sponsored by Zach Kerber Machine.

Easy Parcheesy Racing

Offline Don Gienger

  • Turf Warrior
  • **
  • Posts: 458
  • Karma: 8
    • View Profile
Re: HP and break in question
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2008, 10:17:09 AM »
Hp and Break in?
Well best guess and best work done affordably is up in the air for HP. You are dealing with a 28 CID motor and I don't have a Dyno. But most will agree you won't see a Horse Per Cube until you reall stretch the $$$. So it is safe to say 20 to 26 HP Maybe???
Now how to Break IN? Here is the Following Document I typed up years ago and most follow it with good success.

Engine break in.
So you just built your racing motor and/or you just got  a G Force racing engine from me and you want to know what to do next. Well regardless if you built it or I did this is what you need to know and do. Note, if  you get a motor from me I run them on a run in stand for about 2 hours before they go out. But you should still break in the motor.
First and most importantly. Always run in with one and a half quarts of oil in it. That is what it was designed for and racing it with anything less can and will cause it to fail and blow up. I have always kept my motors on the full mark.
Now if you are firing it up for the first time run your favorite 10 30 weight motor oil. No synthetics!! The reason why is to break in and seat all moving parts. Synthetic oils protect too well and won’t let things break in properly.
So you have regular oil in. You fire it up and run it for a little while. Then even take it for a drive. If you’ve gotten a motor from me then you are ready to go race it for the first time. If not then run it for about an hour then drop the oil and change it. Then fill it with fresh regular oil and go to the race.
Race the motor but keep from really turning it hard. Keep it about 100 or 200 rpm from it’s red line. In the case of a G Force motor then turn it to 5,800  rpms for it’s first race.
You can do this with your home built motor too.
After the first race then it is time to change the oil. Warm it up before you drain it. When the motor has been sitting all metal particles will settle out of the oil. Since these motors don’t have an  oil filter it is important to get all the oil out with all the metal filings and dirt out. The only way to do this is after you have run it for awhile to move all the oil around  on the inside. Take it for a drive or whatever it takes to get it warmed up and the oil moved around.
Now it is time to drain your oil. Once drained put fresh new regular oil in and you are ready to race again.
Do the warm up and oil change about 3 times to get all moving parts broken in properly. Now it is time for synthetics. Since the new parts do need to have some friction to seat in. Now that is done and we need to protect what we have seated and broken in.
So what synthetic is best? I use 5 30 Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. Others use just Wal Mart brand synthetics. They both work good.
Run synthetics for the life of the motor. My motors have gone 40 races plus with only the block failing. After tear down of such motors they still look like brand new. Again always warming it up and changing it after you get home from a race. Then you are ready to go hit the track again.
In the case of a double header weekend you can go the whole weekend without changing. Even if you want you can go as many races as you want. But I do it after every race. Oil is cheap compared to the price of a new motor.
Founder NDLMRA
NDLMRA Race Director
2007 USLMRA CP Class Champ
G-Team Racing
G-Force Engines
The G-Team E-Bay Store!

Offline benfield_boy

  • Mow-Forum Junkie
  • ***
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: 6
  • Gender: Male
    • View Profile
Re: HP and break in question
« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2008, 04:27:25 PM »
  Thanks for the responses! I still don't trust myself to build my motor so now I have to hunt down a good motor builder in my area. Luckily I have one of the best kart motor builders (dare I say it) in the country that lives 2 miles down the road from me.
NEVER DOUBT YOURSELF!!! .....................ANYTHING is Possible.