Topic: 40 ci intek???

[nor66]

I need to order a gasket set and rings for a 40 intek and I haven't got any model#s or codes etc etc.. I had to measure the bore to be certain it was a 40. Question is to order these parts from the local brigggs dealer can I use any 40 intek model #s  and codes?

[docbro]

For the most part, any number should work.  HOWEVER, there may be a "break" in the production of these engines. My suggestion is to look up parts numbers with your local shop to see if there are any "changes".

My series 44 intek had changes in the rings just about a month after my date code.

Kenny

[nor66]

Thats what I was afraid of, this motor  had two different valve covers on it, and there is no way to tell which one it is!

[docbro]

I actually have two of these inteks and what I did was to order the pistons which came with the rings.  It cost me about 35.00 more, but my pistons were showing aliitle wear on the skirts anyway.

He looked on the Briggs site from his store and we went from there.

Kenny

[nor66]

 I guess I will just have to go talk to the dealer and see if he will spend the time to look it up, most of them around here won't talk to you unless you have all the #s

[George Herrin]

Now Nor I am a Briggs Master Service Technician and E.C. is a full line Briggs dealer. Call me Monday and we will get you what you need.

[nor66]

Now Nor I am a Briggs Master Service Technician and E.C. is a full line Briggs dealer. Call me Monday and we will get you what you need.

Alright then, hey while I am asking questions, this motor came on a mower that my stepdad bought and the seller told us it had a precision cam in it. Does mike mark his cams in anyway so I could be sure? I know the seller has had precision build him a cam because I called Mike but not sure if this one is it. 
Reason I am curious about the cam is that when we pulled it out the #1 exhaust lobe was worn down somewhere around 0.120ths you might as well say flat. any ideas what might have caused this?

[Don Gienger]

Hello,
I too am a Briggs dealer and all that.
I have the pistons you want. Briggs has New stuff again. Chrome Moly 4 ring sets out now. No more one piece oil ring. No more cast rings. No more regular piston.
I sell the latest coolest Briggs parts you can find. Chrome Moly you say??
Top ring is moly so it is hard and will last long on dusty and dirty track where the air filter can't keep up.
second ring still cast.
Oil rings are chrome on the edge like Racing Car Motors are so they always wipe the walls clean and last long against dirty oil.
Piston is the next Gen from Briggs. Thinner rings and Teflon coated to last better and longer and slide easier.
I sell Intek "Kits" or parts and pieces for 40's and 44's.
Let me know how I can help
Don
donmownator@yahoo.com
701-400-4084

[George Herrin]

Alright then, hey while I am asking questions, this motor came on a mower that my stepdad bought and the seller told us it had a precision cam in it. Does mike mark his cams in anyway so I could be sure? I know the seller has had precision build him a cam because I called Mike but not sure if this one is it. 
Reason I am curious about the cam is that when we pulled it out the #1 exhaust lobe was worn down somewhere around 0.120ths you might as well say flat. any ideas what might have caused this?

I have never seen a precision cam wear a lobe out.... And yes they generally have a PCXXXX number on it somewhere. Is the cam a cast cam or one with pressed on lobes.

[nor66]

its a cast cam.

[George Herrin]

Thats even more interesting wore lobes are very common on the newer syle with press on lobes. Could have simply been a bad cam or a bad lifter.

[nor66]

This is the motor that had the valve adjustment so messed up it was really loose on #2 and extremely tight on the #1 cyl! I imagine that is what cause it! The motor also had a slight knock that we thought was a rod but after tear down I believe it was the cam making the noise (or valves)the rods doesn't seem to have much wear on the rod bearings

[nor66]

After tearing down the heads on this motor I found that the valve springs were shimmed and the springs seem to be stock. The exhaust valve spring shim was a little thicker than the intake. should it be this way ? I was wondering if maybe they were shimmed to thick and caused the cam wear.... what do you think?

Also while I am asking, should I open up the oil drain back hole under the breather? and if so how much?

[George Herrin]

OK without seeing it I am not sure. Regardless had he had the correct springs it should not need shimming. EC springs and retainers will sove those issues and will not bind up. Floating the valve alot could have caused the excessive wear on the lobe.

and I do not open  the return hole and have had no issues.

[nor66]

 Valve float....... now that could be a good reason!!!!!