Topic: Exhaust pipe

[flateric13]

Nice!!!!

I bet it makes your ears ring!!!!!!

[eddiehenjr]

I was at Home Depot a few days ago looking at chromed-copper sink traps and straight tubing.  I was fitting them together and I think I could solder them together and make a good looking exhaust header!  I'm betting the chrome will burn off closer to the engine.  Does anyone have an idea if the tubing will heat up and separate at the soldered joints?  The tubes come in 1", 1 1/4", and 1 1/2" diameters so which one should I use?  If I get too big a pipe, will I burn valves or something?

They also have these collector tubes that are perfect velocity stacks for like $10!!

[mowdak1]

Your chrome will at minimum tarnish closer to the engine. But that's probably the least of your problems. Sink traps and chromed drain pipe are all made of a fairly light brass alloy, and they don't withstand a great deal of abuse. They're fairly easy to bend, they crack fairly easy, they crush fairly easy, the chrome peels off of them without too much trouble. 

As far as soldering them, there is a torchless solder out there. I haven't used it, but I have seen it, and everything about it suggests it would work. Thus if you wanted to try it, you could stick it all together without tarnishing your chrome until you started it!

Buy a stick or 2 of each and find yourself a 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" sweding tool so you stretch that pipe up big enough to size it up and solder it.

[Chris]

The solder would melt and the exhaust setup would fall apart before you have any problems with your chrome!

[mowdak1]

Well common solder I would definitely see a problem in that but, different solder alloys have different melting points. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

And, when you get into silver solders flow points can range up to 1100* Fahrenheit.

http://www.handyharmancanada.com/hbpm/soldering/gold_and_silver_soldering.htm

In that case I can see the cheap chrome applied to a drain pipe, as well as the brass it's stuck too melting before the solder does. Been there, done that...

[Chris]

Well I assumed he was just using common solder...


But you all know what happens when you assume

[speeddemon0308]

you make an @$$ out of U and ME

[offroadwhatever8]

^^hahahaha^^, regular soder would melt in a instant...

[mowdak1]

Well I assumed he was just using common solder...


But you all know what happens when you assume

He might the first time, but he wouldn't get very far! He'd be looking for some different stuff in short order.

[eddiehenjr]

Ok thanks!  The heatless solder you're talking about - is it JB weld?  I'm thinking I might just bypass the trial and error route with solder, and just zap it up really quick with the Miller.  I don't really care how good it looks.  As long as it's smooth, they make hi-temp chrome engine paint I can shoot it with.  So do ya think that stuff'll get brittle and break if it heats up?  Thanks for the info!

[mowdak1]

Most of your plumbing type drain pipe is going to be a brass or copper alloy to resist corrosion, I don't think you're going to zap that up with the Miller!

The heatless solder can be found in the plumbing section at Menards, have only seen it once, and don't recall who makes it honestly, but it is designed for household or other plumbing, new installation as everything has to be clean, and it was rated for high enough temperature we were considering it for use on a Steam Coil, I want to say 285*f, but I honestly don't recall for sure. Didn't use it because we were looking at patching existing leaks in said coil, and weren't sure we could get needed penetration, or what problems we might encounter if it didn't work wherein we would be looking at replacing the coil, or major work to repair after the fact. Found a little lighter grade of silver solder with better flow properties than what I was using to patch it up. 

You can check with Don at G-Team on the exhaust kit... he just found a new supplier with all sorts of goodies available and we don't have everything up on the site yet...  http://www.g-team.us/exhaust.htm

[eddiehenjr]

So if I buy one of the tube kits and weld it up to the flange, what size tube should I get?  I believe it has 1 1/4" on it now.  Should I go any bigger with it, or stay the same size?  And does tube diameter effect its sound any?

[TheMowinCuban]

The larger the tube diameter, the more smooth the exhaust sounds, the smaller the diameter, the more "poppy" the exhaust sounds. Also the longer the exhaust pipe, the more "Hollow" the exhaust sounds. So if you want a low,deep rumble, go for a larger diameter and longer exhaust pipe, and if you want a higher and poppier sound, go for a smaller and shorter pipe.

[mowdak1]

If you do a search on exhaust pipes, somewhere around here George has recommendations on such. It should be staged up 1", 1 1/4", then 1 1/2"

First 12 inches or so 1", then 12 - 16" of 1 1/4", and whatever you need to finish it out 1 1/2"... and George puts a short piece of bigger stuff on the end to make it rumble sweeter. Check his build thread I think he had pictures of it there.

You need the smaller exhaust up close to sustain backpressure for your bottom end, otherwise it flows to freely and you'll lose some power on the bottom end. 


http://www.heymow.com/index.php/topic,34.msg1858.html#msg1858
http://www.heymow.com/index.php/topic,893.msg6093.html#msg6093
http://www.heymow.com/index.php/topic,1045.0.html

[birdman_express]

Rocky is right, you can make some noise, or tune your exhaust per the specs George gives and go somewhere. And it will sound good as well.