Stock pistons will be fine. Get a set of the long ARC rods and sand the top of the piston down until it is flush with the top of the deck at TDC. This will eliminate most of the dish in the top of the piston ( with no rings on the piston, the rod installed, the top bearing in the rod and the crank turned to TDC for the cyl you are working on, you can easily slide it down in the cylinder to see how much more you need to sand off. I sometimes just use a belt sander to get it close, making sure to take the same amount off all way around the top and then finish sanding by hand with some finer grit sandpaper on a piece of thick glass.) Just remember, you will need at least .030 clearance between the top of the piston and the head. So if you are using the factory .010 thick tin head gaskets the piston will need recessed into the bore .020 at TDC. If you use .030 thick head gaskets, the piston can be flush with the deck at TDC. Or with a thicker .040 gasket the top of the piston can protrude .010. Double valve springs, billet retainers, steel pushrods and cheetah cam will work good. Stock valves will work good with a little port and polish work in the heads. Make sure you get a ARC billet flywheel, because you will easily be able to turn 8000 rpms with this combination. If you find, or all ready have, a set of the stock oem aluminum rockers they will work fine. The stamped steel rockers will not hold up to the higher rpms.