Topic: Son's New Super Stock/imow build for 07 with 820

[Overrevvv]

how do you get your transaxel to line up with the engine when you set it in that deep? i really dont know and i want to do that. mine sits at stock height and that isnt good when cornering fast, obviously

[George Herrin]

Look at the pictures it shows you everything you need to know.

[Overrevvv]

i see how you did it in the pictures but i dont have the right resources to do that. what if i flipped the transaxel over so the pulley was on the bottom and lined it up directly with the engine? granted i modified the shifter to compensate?

[hillbilly1]

That would give you five reverse speeds and only one forward,all you need is a jackshaft and if you don't feel like buying one there pretty easy to make.

[George Herrin]

Why the flipping over has been done in the past with great success. And no they didn't have 5 reverse gears. But I still would not want mine upside down.

[Overrevvv]

That would give you five reverse speeds and only one forward,all you need is a jackshaft and if you don't feel like buying one there pretty easy to make.

only if it was backwards. im gonna flip it and put it up into the body more today. i already figured out the shifter problem.

[BriggsandStratton1218]

Just think of all the lube you put in that when its upside down.  Its not going to be bathing those gears in oil like it would sitting correctly.

[Overrevvv]

eh, i scrapped that idea. i got a huffy now 

[Orange Peel]

This is the intital setup of the belt and clutch system on the bottom from engine to jackshaft. Notice how I use a long cut belt and screw it together to get a good measurement on belt size keeps me from making several trips to the store.


Remember early in the build I has said we were doing this as acheap build using what we had. I built the clutch from spare pulleys and the mount bracket is made from 1x1/4 flat bar. Easy to do and got the job done.


with everything in place we mounted the clutch pedal and made the linkage rod. I used the same material we make the tie rods on the EC axles.


The drive line on bottom from motor to jackshaft is complete belt guides in place. The guides are 3/8 bolts with a flange nut welded to the frame on motor pulley. The jack shaft I drilled and taped the jackshaft plate and screwed them in.


Here is a close up view of the front transaxle support braket. It bolts to the side of case and is welded on the other end to the frame. This keeps the transaxle from pivoting on acceleration.


Now the belt system on top of the jackshaft to the transaxle was very simple. It has no clutch so it doesn't need guides. for a tensioner I used a flat idler of the rear belt system of the original vary drive on the MTD. I welded a flat bar to the top of the frame and slotted it so the idler can slide to adjust tension. Also notice the tight confinement of the shifter.


A real close look at the shifter. I used the origianl arm that bolts to the shifter cut it off to just a nub then using the original MTD shifter bent and shaped it and welded it to the end of the shift arm plate


This is an overall view of the completed shifter. An aluminum plate/cover will slip right under the shifter and bolt down to cover this open area.


Now the master cylinder is mounted to the side of the frame for easy access. using a steering column we heated and shaped the rod into the pedal you see in this photo. Welded a 1inch square tab to the rear for linkage mount. Jacob cut the splined end off and drilled it to a 3/8 hole and I welded it to the bottom and bolted it to the frame for a nice pedal setup. Easier than what I been doing on the other chassis builds. But as usual I am always trying something new.


As you can see here the engine is a a 14.5 OHV. ARMA rules allow the use of the ohv in the super Stock Class. Also you can see the start of the exhaust inch pipe I.D. We wired the system up so it uses the original key swiitch and starter button to start it. It also suses the tehtered kill switch or key to stop it.


Here is the bottom or lower part of exhaust. We used the stepped of  the exhaust off his kart motor to finish the exhaust. He wanted the mower worse than the kart.


One last thing to do before Jake can test it out and that is the seat side brace. Here you see how I do that. Useuing some old seat lace I put thaat on top of the aluminu

Look at the pictures it shows you everything you need to know.

I didn't understand what a jackshaft was till now thanks.And by the way that is geneous my build will be way better now. thanks again

[Dustin-thewind]

That's a Great build.Father/son,setup,Pics.the hole shabang.

[George Herrin]

Racers I post this stuff for all to see to share my knowledge free of charge to help you the racers. That being the case you may use info and share info from these posts freely. BUT I will not permit anyone copying this info then turning around and selling it for profit. I don't even mind you using it in build clinics. BUT give the information freely as I have done here. I hope everyone understands my position on this matter. If you know anyone selling this info please let me know.

[nic_hayes]

I'll keep my eye open on ebay for ya George. People that do that kind of thing are simply a waste of air!

[George Herrin]

Thanks Nic. I spoke with a guy this evening says he paid someone for a build manual and it was my build. I don't mind someone using or sharing it But I will not tolerate someone selling it not when I post it all for free.

[nic_hayes]

That sucks, the reason I said Ebay is because I have seen a few "how to build a racing mower" manuals on there. my eyes will be like this later nic

[mowdak1]

Clear cut case of copyright infringement, find out who he is and have an attorney send him a nice little letter requesting all proceeds derived from sale thereof or he's going to jail.