Topic: Son's New Super Stock/imow build for 07 with 820

[FarmBoiRacer]

LMAO! I just noticed that my gender was set to female  so when I would go to change it, the my computer would lock up. But I got it 'er fixed 

[coreyk]

good question, what ever brand TSC sells 11lb rolls.

Where do you get it?

[matt25001149]

im guessing its TSC

[George Herrin]

TSC............. Tractor Supply Company

[George Herrin]

This is the intital setup of the belt and clutch system on the bottom from engine to jackshaft. Notice how I use a long cut belt and screw it together to get a good measurement on belt size keeps me from making several trips to the store.


Remember early in the build I has said we were doing this as acheap build using what we had. I built the clutch from spare pulleys and the mount bracket is made from 1x1/4 flat bar. Easy to do and got the job done.


with everything in place we mounted the clutch pedal and made the linkage rod. I used the same material we make the tie rods on the EC axles.


The drive line on bottom from motor to jackshaft is complete belt guides in place. The guides are 3/8 bolts with a flange nut welded to the frame on motor pulley. The jack shaft I drilled and taped the jackshaft plate and screwed them in.


Here is a close up view of the front transaxle support braket. It bolts to the side of case and is welded on the other end to the frame. This keeps the transaxle from pivoting on acceleration.


Now the belt system on top of the jackshaft to the transaxle was very simple. It has no clutch so it doesn't need guides. for a tensioner I used a flat idler of the rear belt system of the original vary drive on the MTD. I welded a flat bar to the top of the frame and slotted it so the idler can slide to adjust tension. Also notice the tight confinement of the shifter.


A real close look at the shifter. I used the origianl arm that bolts to the shifter cut it off to just a nub then using the original MTD shifter bent and shaped it and welded it to the end of the shift arm plate


This is an overall view of the completed shifter. An aluminum plate/cover will slip right under the shifter and bolt down to cover this open area.


Now the master cylinder is mounted to the side of the frame for easy access. using a steering column we heated and shaped the rod into the pedal you see in this photo. Welded a 1inch square tab to the rear for linkage mount. Jacob cut the splined end off and drilled it to a 3/8 hole and I welded it to the bottom and bolted it to the frame for a nice pedal setup. Easier than what I been doing on the other chassis builds. But as usual I am always trying something new.


As you can see here the engine is a a 14.5 OHV. ARMA rules allow the use of the ohv in the super Stock Class. Also you can see the start of the exhaust inch pipe I.D. We wired the system up so it uses the original key swiitch and starter button to start it. It also suses the tehtered kill switch or key to stop it.


Here is the bottom or lower part of exhaust. We used the stepped of  the exhaust off his kart motor to finish the exhaust. He wanted the mower worse than the kart.


One last thing to do before Jake can test it out and that is the seat side brace. Here you see how I do that. Useuing some old seat lace I put thaat on top of the aluminum to protect from any edges and clamp it to the side of seat drill 1/4 inch holes and Jacob bolted it on. Done time for testing.


Jacob suited up with all the safety gear backing it out to the drive way before starting it.


His first pass at speed down our yard/back straight.


an upclose look at him coming off a turn onto what we call our front straight. We have a big yard.

[chini]

  Looks like time to get a paint' in Nice job. Looks like a father/son double threat. Kevin

[Mowindown]

Very nice mower!  (You better watch him George won't be long till he will be out there passing you.    )Good luck Jacob.  Be safe and have fun.

[TheMowinCuban]

ok, i have a quick question, how much is that jackshaft setup that your using? because i was planning on making one myself, but with my luck, it'll break once i put it in!

[Tom Fox]

ok, i have a quick question, how much is that jackshaft setup that your using? because i was planning on making one myself, but with my luck, it'll break once i put it in!

Give Steve Bertrand a call @ 800-236-3611.

[TheMowinCuban]

well, i was only planning on calling him if i have the money and was going to order it..but as of now, i have no money and i'm just trying to sum up how much money i will need for my IMOW build, and i wouldnt want to call him up just to ask how much it is when i can just have george tell me here....

[allen minaker]

A good jackshaft set-up isn't that expensive , I think if you call E.C. they sell all teh stuff .
It's couple of bearings and a piece of 3/4 shaft , weld in a second plate above the frame to support the top bearing and there you are . that's the easy explanation but you get the idea from that , I hope . LOL
Wish I still had pics from my SP .

[George Herrin]

Sorry I have been gone since Friday morning. Had our test and tune and Jacob had a ball on his new mower. Drove like a pro and had no problems at all. Anyways the price of the jackshaft assy I couldn't tell you. They were provided by Bertrand Hydraulics as sponsorship. He sponsors all our mowers and we carry the Bertrand Hydraulic decals proudly. I have seen guys use Murray Deck Spindle assy's I di on a couple customer builds, also seen some Kart front wheel hubs used. Many things to use.

[TheMowinCuban]

well, thanks for the help guys, i'm going to see if the deck spindles off of my MTD's deck would work..

[septemberrein]

Well my son Jacob has started work on his new Super Stock. This is a ARMA and US/IMOW legal build. We started with a somewhat tore down chassis was missing deck, engine, and rear wheels. This build will use an 820 transaxle and a jackshaft. We will attempt to build it so the chassis is 4" off the ground. We are using a MTD, for this build. I started with pics once he was almost done stripping the chassis. This will be a slow build I am hoping he does most of the work. But will take pics and show progress as it moves along.



This first picture Jake has removed the bodywork and front axle he is now removing the steering wheel. The object is to strip it down to bare frame.



This picture he is down to removing the deck lift parts. Here is using the saws-all to cut the lift handle in half. It’s easier to remove it this way. And we do not plan on reusing it anyhow.


Here is Jacob prepping the side panels for the transaxle mounts we are going to weld in


Here we have them welded in We used 1.5" angle and welded it to a 1/4" square tube. Then welded the whole thing in


Here is a view from the outside


Here is an over all view. We are mounting an 820 transaxle into this MTD. All ready built one so this really isn't new ground for us. Well it is for Jake. This is his first build.


Here you see the transaxle sitting in place


Here is a look inside the frame. While the transaxle is in place we squared it up centered it left and right and using a transfer punch marked the 4 mounting boltholes. Then we drilled and tapped for a 5/16 standard thread.


Here is a look with it bolted in place Front mounts still need making but the transaxle is in.


Here’s another look at it bolted in. I use the very inside bolt holes in the case they just happen to be in line with the side panel. This is the reason we make the mounts like we did. By not going to the outer boltholes this will allow for our brake setup, which you will see, in later pictures.


Here is a look at it in side from the front


Here is an overall view of the bottom


As you can see we still stiffen the chassis with the square tubing. This is essentially a prepared chassis and will be built as such.


Here you can see we still have just a bit of modifying to do to the case we grind this material away. There is plenty of access here and doesn't hurt cutting or grind some of it away.


here is the other side have to notch case just a little still


This picture is of his brothers brake system on his Super-stock. We will install the same set up on this one.


Here is another look at the disk and disk hub. The is made by none other than Steve Bertrand of Bertrand Hydraulics, also the builder of the big Indian also referred to as the Thunder Twin. 1800-236-3611

george , I was wondering when you cut out for the rear axle about far down are cutting into the chassis to mount trans ? I'm currently building another mowchine for our enduro races here and I'm using a 849 peerless trans .I built the last two using 700's and decided to try this one with a transaxle . So far I like building for the 700 tranny's .

[George Herrin]

FROM top of frame to top of cut is 4 inches.