Author Topic: NON Kart wheels and tires (Read 19209 times)

1031 · « **on:** December 17, 2005, 01:54:09 am »

Our little piece of racing heaven limits our club to lawnmower tires and rims. "need to be turf saver type tire"
I don't have a problem with this rule. It's the same for everyone.
My question is where can I find a good bearing for my front rims?
The factory bushing even with grease are not the best for racing.
Friction is my enemy here,and when they start to wear you loose your front end setup.
I have found regular lawnmower bearings, But they are not built for the pressure or the speed.
I have looked at Kart bearings but not able to find excatly what I need.
I know you guys have an idea where I can look.
All a person here has to do is ask the question, and someone will help you out! That is why this place is the bomb

Thanks
1031

George Herrin · « **Reply #1 on:** December 17, 2005, 09:19:05 am »

E.C. Distributing may have what you need what is the bearing O.D. and I.D. demensions you need. We have a large supply of bearings ranging from 3/8 to 1 1/4 of varying sizes.

Squidd · « **Reply #2 on:** December 17, 2005, 11:21:58 am »

To use the stock LM front rims, you'll need "Flanged" bearings that match the id. and od of the bushings your replacing...

Generally 1 3/8" OD and either a 3/4" or 5/8" ID...

There are basicly two types..either a stamped case/ball bearing (run about $2 or so) work well but a little on the loose side, and tend to wear out quickly, or better yet a sealed bearing (tighter, rubberseals keep "grit" out) around $5-$6 a pop...

If you get the sealed bearings, be sure to order them with the "snap rings" on the OD, which will hold them in place in the stock rim..

1031 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 17, 2005, 11:44:10 pm »

Thanks George and Squidd,
My size needed is 1 3/8 X 3/4 and the outside ring is 1 1/2

I have gone to our local bearing supply. but in the books they could not find anything to match this size even with a locking ring on the outside.

I would rather get a good sealed bearing then have to keep replacing cheeper versions.
The cheep looking lawnmower bearings here are around 8 to 10 bucks.
I would be fine paying 10 bucks for a good bearing Squidd just need to find the place where to buy.
I will check out E.C. Distributing George and see if I can find the size there.
Thanks for all your help you guys.
1031

George Herrin · « **Reply #4 on:** December 17, 2005, 11:48:14 pm »

Not sure if they have them on the site yet I will look to see what we have Monday when I get in.

1031 · « **Reply #5 on:** December 17, 2005, 11:59:48 pm »

Thanks George !

Will be looking for your post

Squidd · « **Reply #6 on:** December 18, 2005, 12:25:06 am »

APS has the 5/8 " roller bearings with snap rings...Can you change you spindles...?

They also have the 3/4" rollers, but no ring...Those would need an internal bushing to hold the bearings to the wheel..
http://www.apskarting.com/

ACME has them in 5/8" and Comet has 5/8" and 3/4" flanged, but not roller...

Sami is running stock steel wheels on her S/S, but I went with 5/8" spindles...

1031 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 18, 2005, 12:40:22 am »

Squidd,
Kinda hard to change my spindels. Actually just put a new, used set on my mower from last seasons abuse. Had a little bad luck in the 2nd to the last race and bent the heck out of them. Used the cutting torch to heat the littel gems so that they could be bent back to a close position to finish up the year.
I run an older Murry by the way.
We are required to use only "mower parts" no Kart parts in our club.
The only exception is Brakes.

I tried the link but it did not work for me.

Thanks for your help.
I am still looking
1031

Squidd · « **Reply #8 on:** December 18, 2005, 12:59:59 am »

I changed the link...click in the blue index on the left...bearings..

A lot of mowers came "stock" with the 5/8" "J" or "L" spindels...(MTD, Yard Master)

A little checking at the boneyard and I bet you could find a set you could use...

1031 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 18, 2005, 01:06:02 am »

Thanks Squidd.

The link is working. and I am looking.. Yes might have to make the bone yard trip.

1031

mowerracer313 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 18, 2005, 09:46:32 am »

another little trick with sealed bearings is if they have rubber seals is hook the seal out and pack more grease in them and push the seal back in they dont come with much grease in them ive had them last longer when i do this

George Herrin · « **Reply #11 on:** December 18, 2005, 11:17:20 am »

agggh but grease is thick will slow you down. Hold the bearing in your hand and spin it full of grease and see how long it will spin. NOW remove the seals and flush the bearing with some good cleaning solvent blow dry with air then take one of those empty bottles of synthetic 5/30 motor oil and let the last few drips fall into the bearing replace seal and spin it. If you havn't bent the seal any it will spin very free. Every little bit helps fellas. Every couple races clean and re oil. Been running mine a couple years now.

mowerracer313 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 19, 2005, 05:35:03 pm »

now i never thought of that
thanks for the tip george

1031 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 19, 2005, 09:41:59 pm »

Thats why your the Man George.

Thanks for sharing some of your trade secrets

1031

George Herrin · « **Reply #14 on:** December 19, 2005, 10:46:49 pm »

Well I am not a two class 3 time National Champion for no reason. There are many little things that one does to enhance the performance or efficiency of what you have to work with. The bearing trick for example may seem like a small fruitless detail. And you will probably not feel the difference in the seat of your pants. BUT you add up 10, 15, 20 or more of those little tiny fruitless details and you have gained a 1/10 or even a 1/2 second a lap. Add that up over 20 laps and it get pretty big. Its all about studing hard and doing your home work. Document changes and there effects. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. It really adds up and makes a difference.

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