Author Topic: Sami's S/S  (Read 162078 times)

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Offline Squidd

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« Reply #45 on: April 16, 2006, 08:28:26 AM »
Good eye George...Had thought about that as we were cleaning up the old parts..

But I think I have a solution for that..Don't use oil... :shock:

Switched the pads to semi'metalics and plan on using a Citrus/Paraffin chain lube developed for cross country bike racing..

Sprays on wet, and drys to a coating that "supposedly" will not collect dust, build up or fling off and has better lubricating properties than petroleum based chain lubes...Comes with a special cleaner, you soak and wash the chain and then re lube between race days...

My boys used it when they were racing, and seems to work as advertised, kept the chain clean and low wear on their aluminum gears...and they ran thru mud and sand and water...

Will see how it holds up under power...Should be OK for a governed J/P "might even" be OK for heavier horse power..
Randy Stys
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Offline mowmanscott

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« Reply #46 on: April 16, 2006, 10:17:04 AM »
Squid what and how is the electric motor used for during the break in?  Scott

Offline Squidd

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« Reply #47 on: April 16, 2006, 01:37:05 PM »
Break in or pre running is just that...a gentle running of engine to allow parts to wear in and rub against each other and get their final fit and finish...Before fireing up and racing..

No matter how smooth you hone a cylinder or grind a cam, or when adding new rings..there are sharp edged and imperfections (microscopic) that need to be broken down and rubbed in to get total seal and smoothness...

There are many ways and "theory's" on proper break in...slow idle, variable speed, run-cool-run-cool, etc...But I have found with electric motors and small gas and nitro powered engines (RC stuff) and confirmed by Dons Motor Building Video, that rather than running "under power" (firing it up) it's easier on the engine to add power (electric motor/belt) and spin the engine up allowing surfaces to mate and seal gently and slowly, without the heat and combustion "pressures" of a running engine.

I ran it for about an hour with the electric motor..then drained oil and repeated for another half hour...drained again and filled with racing synthetic...

First time I drained the oil was glistening with aluminum filings or dust...second time came out much cleaner..

Nice thing about doing it on a stand like this is, you can twist and turn the motor to drain out "All" the oil (and grit), getting it out from all the crevices and chambers in the pan...Something you can't do if it's mounted in your mower...
Randy Stys
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Offline mowmanscott

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« Reply #48 on: April 16, 2006, 02:23:12 PM »
Thanks Randy thats what I though. I do have Dons video I think I dozed off at that time  :oops:  (11:30 pm and had to go to work the next day) Guess I'd better watch it again.. :shock: .. Thanks Scott

Offline George Herrin

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« Reply #49 on: April 16, 2006, 04:51:32 PM »
Maybe so but I personally wouldn't trust it. But hope it works for you!!!
George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
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Offline tory

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« Reply #50 on: April 16, 2006, 06:26:55 PM »
Goerge,please elaberate on what you wouldnt trust,and maybe suggest your break-in preferance.

Offline George Herrin

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« Reply #51 on: April 16, 2006, 07:26:19 PM »
The brake set up he is using. tranny leaks oil to some extent regardless of dry lube and the chain will get wet to some extent leaving oil on sprocket/brake rotor combo which will in time cause the brakes simply to not stop the mower. Just my opinion. As for break in method, I break them in on the track. (my personal Motors) A cutomer motor I do something very similar to what squidd does.
George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
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Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!


Offline matt25001149

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« Reply #52 on: April 16, 2006, 08:25:02 PM »
ya i had the same problem with my mower i had bought hydraulic brakes because i thought that the brakes just werent enuff to stop my mower so i went out and spent 280$ cad on a mcp brake kit and still woudnt stop it so i went to straight axel with a separate disc and holy crap :shock:  it stopped all right
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Offline Squidd

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« Reply #53 on: April 16, 2006, 09:09:49 PM »
Thanks for the heads up guys..I'll keep an eye on it...don't want to send Sami out witout good brakes...

If it becomes a problem I can change it out...

Was kinda thinking a 1" axel somewhere down the road anyway, in which case I'd have to seperate the brakes from the sprocket hub as well...
Randy Stys
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Offline matt25001149

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« Reply #54 on: April 16, 2006, 09:15:18 PM »
well being that u have a straight axel u can put a brake disk on the opposite side right and then mount ur mechanical brake caliper or do u not wanna do this because the brake pedal is on the right hand side
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Offline Squidd

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« Reply #55 on: April 16, 2006, 09:33:12 PM »
At this point no...

1. It's a J/P governed class, goes pretty slow and won't take much brake power to stop...I doubt they'll go out completely with out some warning time...

2. We're "purposely" going for the low buck approach, using as many stock (slightly modified) parts as possible..which includes the 3/4" axel, tire, wheel, bearing and brake combo...

3. Being 3/4" hardened axel, not sure how long it'll hold up, hoping a good long time, Sami is light and not running all "that" hard... but not willing to do much more unless I up grade to 1"axel, bearings, hubs and wheels...

4. Running the Foote Tranny with grease rather than oil...so dripping shouldn't be an issue...

5. I'm not cheap, and certainly concerned about the safety of my daughter, but remember this is an "experimental" ride...(she may not like it...)

If she sticks with it and runs 'er hard like a racer should, you can believe ol' Dad will have this upgraded in no time with my spare 700 trans,  1" axel, hubs, Hydraulic brakes, and "Shiny" Aluminum rims.. :lol:  

(then maybe pull the govener off, gear 'er up and run the S/P class myself)...shhh, don't tell Sami.. :wink:... she's already "eyeing" my shiny rims... :lol:
Randy Stys
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Offline matt25001149

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« Reply #56 on: April 16, 2006, 10:44:43 PM »
lol alright just a suggestion and watch out daughters can be pretty persuasive when it comes to sumthing they want lol :lol:
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Offline George Herrin

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« Reply #57 on: April 17, 2006, 05:29:40 AM »
I too understand low buck and experimental, but grease in any tranny at anything over stock speeds is a lock up looking for a place to happen. A good S/S mower will run 18 to 20 mph compared to a IMOW at 20 to 23. Just watch everything would not want her to get in an accident or have one due to the experiments then be turned off to racing forever. My oldest Boy Brandon did wasn't due to experiments he has the best of everything I could put in it at the time, he had some good sponsors but had the only S/S wreck of the year here. he and another racer got together sending both into a tumble. He wound up under his and that was the end of it. He finished the season but always fell back to last place cause he was scared and won't even get on it this year. Could happen to anyone whether the mower is built with the best of everything or not. Just be careful. watch her close ride it yourself to test it and take it out for a spin regularly to make sure its still holding up before she hits a race. That way you understand more of what its doing. I do it with my son's and hopefully if something fails or starts you will catch it or be on it and not her!!!
George Herrin #6
Indian Power.. You gotta Go big to beat em or Go HOME
8 time ARMA National Champion
4 time USLMRA National Champion
Retired from BP
www.herrinmowersports.yolasite.com
www.allamericanmowerchampionships.yolasite.com
My other racer is a 1/5th scale Dirt Late Model!!!!

Offline Squidd

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« Reply #58 on: April 17, 2006, 03:49:38 PM »
Hear you there George...sorry to hear about Brandon...

Having Fun and being Safe are the two most important goals of this "experiment"...Competing well and Finishing come in next and winning is a bonus...

Will take another look at the "reliabilty" ratios on the trans/grease vs. Brakes/oil issue...

I'm sure we'll be getting plenty of "testing time" in before the first race, and during the season to see how things are holding up...

Actually, upgrades are probably closer than I'm letting on...t this point want to make the Memorial Weekend "Opener" and if she's really getting into it I have almost a month to the next LC race to fine tune and up grade her J/P...

If she's not into it... I still have a month to upgrade and fine tune "My" new S/P..  :shock:  

(OK Fine...I've already started collecting "Shiny" parts.. :wink: )
Randy Stys
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 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Squidd

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« Reply #59 on: April 19, 2006, 11:29:13 AM »
Dang...Little problem...

Clutch pedal hits Air filter...Going to have to reconfigure (lower) pedal to clear and work out linkage/leverage to keep it easy to depress..



Probably for the better though...pedal is now 6"-7" above deck, which may be a bit high for her smaller foot..
Lowering it will make it easier to maintain contact...Probably adjust brake pedal on other side to match as well..

Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

 

anything