Topic: Flipper's John Deere L120 build

[Flipper]

I just started my L120 Last night. Still working in Reinforcing the rear.(the weak point on these frames)

Working my way forward. Steering will be next.......still contemplating what type of front axle/steering system to consider. I like the center pivot idea from G-Team. Open for suggestions....what works best for you guys?....been using a stock-extensively modified L100 series steering...works very well, but the maintenance is too high and expensive.

[mowcrastinator]

Great looking build! I own a L100 for a grass cutter. I could use that cupholder / shifter trim. If your not going to use let me know.

[Flipper]

Sorry, will be using them........They are rather cheap...cup hoder was $9.00 and the shifter trim was less than $15.00 brand new.
They get much more for them used, on ebay.

[Burwell555]

Joey, I have a 180, i made my own axle out of 1 5/8 chromoly round tube and run the crossover style steering george has on his mtd. only bad part was i had to run a u joint in my shaft due to lack of room in that particular area on the 180 and where the engine pulley has to ride. Any questions ask away and Ill help the best i can. I did do a step by step build of it on here last winter so it should be recently fresh to find

[RedDeere]

I am running the EC front end on my L110 and it was easy to install. I just had to raise it up a little to get my 4" of ground clearance with 13 6.50 6 front tires. Once I got it adjusted to ware I like it, it handles great. The only issue I have had is the spindles bending on rough tracks but they bend back fairly easily.

[Flipper]

Rear  Frame support cradle almost completed.

Purpose:  
Cradle  shall act as structural support for to support rear frame. (Weak part of L100 Series frames)
Cradle shall also support rear fender deck and house the shift lever assembly. Cradle shall be removable by 6  5/16-18 bolts.
Shift lever bar assembly shall be removable via 5/8 Split ring lock collars. (5/8 Solid rod with Bronze bushing bearings). Shift lever actuator(to be made) will be a 5/8 Split ring collar with an actuator welded on. A custom bend tie rod will be used from actuator to the top of trans. Shift lever and handle will weld on dual split ring collar and shall be adjustable and removable. (Shifter shall be on left while sitting on vehicle)(more on this to come later)

Undecided on which chain tensioner to use, Chain Sprocket type or skate board wheel type.
Rear Axle is 1-1/4” as with the bearings -  4 bolt flange with grease fittings, We started using these early this year with much success - ease of operation/maintenance/higher tensile strength, no failures….and less expensive.(No Brainer)

We decided to weld the EC Tranny plate to the frame (in lieu of bolting it on) We had to modify it slightly by cutting the chain tensioner slot bigger and cutting the rear corners. On this build we moved the 700 Peerless trans location back an inch from previous builds, mainly to clear the fender deck.  We opted to weld the plate on to gain more structural rigidity. May have heated it up too much, the plate warped a 1/32”. No worries, nothing a rubber mallet “persuasion tool” and some cursing can’t fix.

Brakes shall be MCP Dual Caliper with a heavy duty 3/16” thick rear disc. (Undecided for front brakes, Hegars or MCP). Starting with a 42 tooth split sprocket and will adjust from there.  Counter Sprocket will change from 13/14/15 depending on track size.

I am looking into "boxing" part of the frame too.

[flyinBranch]

lookin good

[GRUBDIGGER]

LOOKS HEAVY. ARE YOU GOING ON AN DIET???

[Flipper]

HA HA Johnny!........as matter of fact......yes I am going on a diet! LOL!

[rceagle1a]

Looks good Joey! My L100BP race ready came out at 400lbs. But it is a bomb proof chassis.

[2nstoys]

Looking good. Tore my L2048 Scott's BP down and it survived a hard summer of racing very good. A couple of things to do. Reinforce the steeing shaft as it bent when it rolled hard at the end of the year.



And narrow the front axle for front brakes. Other then that I really don't have much to do to it other then repaint. These frames are easy to build. Also using one for my supermod.

[Flipper]

    Shift Lever Assembly was fabricated today. This shifting system shall be fully adjustable and removable for replacement or maintenance without cutting or welding.   5/8”solid shaft with bronze bushings lets the transfer shaft turn smoothly.  Shaft is held on by locking collars. Shift Linkage fulcrum is made from a dual lock collar as well as the hand shifter.  Hand shifter is from the Stock L120 which was originally on the right side. Took some slight modification for use on the left side, and it will need to be trimmed slightly (Too high). Shift linkage is round tube with 5/16” tie rod ends. The tricky part was getting the linkage angles right from the Trans to the fulcrum.(That took a few attempts).  Shifts thru all gears smoothly with little effort, It still, could use very slight adjustment.  The nice thing with this concept, is that I can adjust the “Throw” of the hand shift lever from short, to longer gear transitions.
Next is mounting the rear disc brake caliper….that will be another day.

[Flipper]

Rear Brake Caliper finally finished, took a few tries, darn thing would warp after welding.
This one is extreme duty and should hold up fine.






Had previous problems with chain lube dripping down the frame and getting on the belt. So I filled in some spaces on the trans cradle to stop the spray and also used some angle on the trans plate to act as a grease/slop catch.




Welded on some cross member brackets(Wide U-Channel), these will be used for idler pulleys, and possibly the clutch mount. Note the multiple choices for pulley placement.



And this bracket will hold and support the rear of the fenderdeck.

[jamesb]

BEAUTIFUL CRAFTSMANSHIP!

[GRUBDIGGER]

JOEY, IS TOMMY OVER THERE? LOOKS LIKE SOME OF HIS BRACING HANDY WORK. :lol: