Author Topic: K341 Pulling Build  (Read 164981 times)

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Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #45 on: November 08, 2010, 03:21:52 pm »
Yeah.. thats why I'm asking here.. lol

MWSC instructions say: "single cylinder engines use one modual and the black wire is hooked to the 'points side' or negative side (opposite of the battery feed side) The red wire is the power wire and should be hooked up to the positive side of the coil(switched 12v battery power)"

This is where I get confuded.... in series or in parrallel with the battery + ?   and do the coil and plate just self ground to frame/block ?

This way the modual is always "hot" that can't be good... instructions say " do not leave key on with engine off for long periods damage to modual will result"
Option 1


If I do it this way the coil is always hot...that can't be good either...
Option 2


If I do it backwards, MWSC says I will fry the modual... So I'm gonna need some clarity here before I go hot..

Quote
Battery goes to one side of switch. other side of switch to pickup and coil
So it sounds like option 3 here is the way to go...?

Option3


Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #46 on: November 08, 2010, 05:52:43 pm »
Start at battery. Batt + to switch. Switch to coil+, coil+ to power wire on pickup. Negative wire of pickup to neg side of coil.
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline tractorracer12

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #47 on: November 08, 2010, 05:54:39 pm »
option 3 looks like the way to go. i have never ran it but i have been doing lots of research.
Tyler Frazier 012-SP

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #48 on: November 08, 2010, 06:27:43 pm »
Yep, sounds like option 3 it is...

Put the springs in, that was a treat, they are a good 1/2" longer than stock and way the heck stiffer...so I had to go backward to pull crank, cam and lifters out to get springs in the pocket...they are in now...

Cam, lifters and crank now in, but I snaped my ring compressor before I could pop the piston in...of course that never happens at 3:00 or 4:00 when I can go into town and get a new one always waits til after dark.... :noplease:

Got a stud kit for head, and getting ready to install crank sensor...
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #49 on: November 10, 2010, 06:39:41 pm »
Got a new ring compressor and set the internals.... Studded the carb and exhaust ports...bolted on all the covers and external dodads and gave 'er a trial fit in frame...

May be a little big for the frame, but I think I can shoe horn it in...

     

Rest of Puller build is in this thread http://www.heymow.com/index.php?topic=12731.msg177907#new
Once I get the motor in place I'll fire it up and break 'er in... :woo:
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline cubcadet70

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #50 on: November 11, 2010, 08:45:39 pm »
when i was just looking through your engine pics and i seen your ports were pretty big and i think it would be a good idea for you to put one of those MWSC port support plate on it! just to protect your block from breaking! they are very simple to put on!
http://www.mcssl.com/store/midwestsupercub/single-cylinder-engine-parts/port-support-plate-for-1cyl-kohler-engines-

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #51 on: November 11, 2010, 09:46:40 pm »
I'm already squeezed on that side of the frame, don't know if I could get another 1/4" in there..and at this point I dont have a spacer or "extended" manifold to add leverage to break tabs off...

Will have to just keep an eye on it for now...

Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #52 on: November 12, 2010, 10:13:05 am »
Kill switch...

I've been looking at basic trailer brake pull switches which are "open" with the plunger in and "closed or grounding" when pin is pulled..at least thats the way I read the add...

But if I have a battery powered ignition system and a battery powered fuel pump....

Wouldn't I want a switch that is "closed" or complete circut with the pin in and "opens" or kills battery power when pin is pulled as a safety switch....?

Or am I missing something here...??
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline gtpuller

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #53 on: November 12, 2010, 10:48:37 am »
Kill switch...

I've been looking at basic trailer brake pull switches which are "open" with the plunger in and "closed or grounding" when pin is pulled..at least thats the way I read the add...

But if I have a battery powered ignition system and a battery powered fuel pump....

Wouldn't I want a switch that is "closed" or complete circut with the pin in and "opens" or kills battery power when pin is pulled as a safety switch....?

Or am I missing something here...??

you would want a normally open switch, when the pin is in, the switch would be closed, pull the pin, switch goes to normally open position, breaking the circuit.
Tim Johnson

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #54 on: November 12, 2010, 11:26:33 am »
Then why is everybody selling/buying these closed trailer switches.. when the pin is in the circut is "open" and when the pin is pulled the contacts touch and complete the circut.... the opposite of what we want...??
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Big daddy

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #55 on: November 12, 2010, 12:17:16 pm »
We keep things simple with the kill switch. We just use a male and female extension cord end for our kill switch.
Bruce Litton

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #56 on: November 12, 2010, 01:12:39 pm »
I like that...then I can wire it the way I want...
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Big daddy

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #57 on: November 12, 2010, 02:08:17 pm »
The female end on my tractor has one wire going to the ground battery terminal, the other wire grounds to the frame. The male end has a jumper wire to connect both tabs, when the two ends are connected there is a loop for the ground, when the male end is pulled no more ground. The female end is connected in a rigid fashion to the tractor then the male end is connected to the female end then we wrap electrical tap several times around the split between the two, so it will not vibrate off but will pull apart.
Bruce Litton

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #58 on: November 16, 2010, 03:45:06 pm »
Got the motor clearanced in the frame, tank came in coil came in and I'm heading downtown to get a plug, wire and battery so I can fire it up...

What Kind of plug do I want to use with the stock head I have now...?

Where do I want to set initial timing with the crank trigger ? (I imagine I will have to dial in the flywheel mark it and then set the trigger..??)
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #59 on: November 16, 2010, 06:04:44 pm »
Just a champion plug that is for the 16 will be fine Randy. You won't have a problem fouling with the Bosch coil. As far as timing 28* is a good starting point.
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

 

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