Author Topic: K341 Pulling Build  (Read 164738 times)

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Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #210 on: August 14, 2011, 01:10:24 pm »
Got some plug pics...

Looks tan on the insulator and ground probe, with a slight gray on the ring to me ...in the OK to slightly lean range...?



Also anyone know how to read "timing" from the base of the ground probe..??

Randy Stys
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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #211 on: August 14, 2011, 02:59:46 pm »
grayish silver tint I have always been told/taught is an indication timing is too high. and the other from what I can see in the plug Randy looks to be just a hair lean!!!
BUT understand this I AM NOT a plug reader per say all I know is what I have been told!!!
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Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #212 on: August 14, 2011, 04:37:18 pm »
That's cool... I'm just going by what I've read/seen on the net...and I agree with the slightly lean

I read about the timing, but not completely sure what I'm looking at there, I thought it was how far up the ground probe the color change is that told timing...
Randy Stys
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Offline Burton for Certain

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #213 on: August 14, 2011, 04:44:37 pm »
That looks close. Maybe a bit lean.
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Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #214 on: August 14, 2011, 06:01:20 pm »
Fatten the high side up a 1\4 turn and recheck it. If your timing is 28-30 leave it there. Its just lean.
Dennis Bazzett
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Offline Big daddy

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #215 on: August 17, 2011, 12:28:36 pm »
If you are using VP fuels and especially C-12 and have the carb. close to being perfect then the plugs will look lean, never put much faith when tuning a pulling engine by the plugs unless they are fouled really bad. If it runs good on top end and bottom and the plug fires correctly then you are in business!! 8)
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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #216 on: August 24, 2011, 02:17:51 pm »
OK so I just put my new cam in, (lifters springs etc..) everything else the same and fired up the motor...

Started fine.. Idles fine... won't go over 5000 rpm...??

Flywheel key is good, checked timing with degree wheel and light... OK

Spark Good, Ran carb adjuster in and out gets better but not much over 5k...

Compression good, leakdown good...

When it cools down I'll recheck valve lash, might be on tight side, does that sound like the problem, or should I look elsewhere..?
Not valve lash, rechecked adjusted "slightly" but no improvement..

I'm going to try a new plug, although this one looks to spark fine...


Randy Stys
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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #217 on: August 24, 2011, 02:25:21 pm »
Stupid question but.....didn't get the cam timed wrong ?
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Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #218 on: August 24, 2011, 02:37:06 pm »
I don't think so, I checked it with degree wheel when I put it in, and starts and runs too good (I think) for it to be off...

But if I don't get a "quick fix" I'll pull the motor and try again.. Just hate to pull it all the way down just to get the springs off...
Randy Stys
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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #219 on: August 24, 2011, 03:40:03 pm »
Pulled motor, double checked cam spot on to specs..

Going to run into town and get new plug..

Carb maybe.. but will go rich gurgly and lean poppy but no speed increase in middle ground.. ??
Randy Stys
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Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #220 on: August 24, 2011, 04:25:35 pm »
Shouldn't be carb. It was on a 45cid engine and ran 6000+ with out a problem. It could be air flow restricting in the cylinder head. You did install a different head? A stock head will flow alot of air but will be down on compression. With a stock head on it you could verify if that was the problem. It will turn hard with a stock head. If it does retry the billet head. see what the difference is. Is the rod in correctly. oil hole in cap toward the cam. If not it could be locking it down on you. It has to be something simple randy. That cam in a stock unported block should turn hard.
try it with out the air cleaner too.
Dennis Bazzett
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Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #221 on: August 24, 2011, 06:01:36 pm »
I'm getting a lot of blow back thru the carb at 3500...minor at idle like the other cam, but quite a bit as it revs up...

Doesn't seem to be "binding" or tightening up mechanicly, also double checked flywheel key (OK)

I'll try original head next...
It was the head...newer "high compression" head dont seem to flow worth a darn


Went back to original billet revs good now...



Randy Stys
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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #222 on: August 24, 2011, 06:27:07 pm »
Do you know what the CR difference in the 2 heads is.
Biggest mistake I see people making on flat heads of all kinds is giving up flow for compression.
Usually, the amount of compression they gain is minimal, especially considering the amount o flow they lose to get it.
We took measurements on a pair of Flathead Fords once. The difference gained in leaving half the block m,aterial ended up being .13 pints of compression, the amount of flow lost was much more significant!
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Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #223 on: August 24, 2011, 06:33:00 pm »
Smaller head is 55cc which gives a 10.26:1 ratio and the original head is 65cc which gives a 9.46:1 ratio

Now that it's running, I will probably do some "experimental" grinding on the bridge between the valves maybe loose 5cc and see if that opens the flow on smaller head but still a compression advantage..

If not, I'll run with what I have..
Randy Stys
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Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #224 on: August 24, 2011, 06:59:54 pm »
With that mountain of aluminum inbetween the valves and the lack of ramp it will not run well at all. I think I said something about that head somewhere on one of your posts. The other head you have is what you want. It also looks as if who built it knows what they were doing. It looks cnc cut. I would run it as is Randy. My cylinder head I made is 90cc. But with all the bore volume and gasket volume numbers figured up my engine is 9.90-1.

The blow back is normal. You have a ton of valve overlap now. Alot more chop at an idle. The cam is meant to turn and turn hard while sacrificing low end runabililty. It will still pull down low but the cam is meant to be run at prolly 7500+ to be in its power band. It should free rev 8500 if your porting and cylinder head is flowing good.
Watch this.

http://youtu.be/WIa9prtYDvg

Serious blowback, big duration stock altered cam. This is a stock block motor.
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

 

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