Author Topic: K341 Pulling Build  (Read 164720 times)

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Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #195 on: May 21, 2011, 08:38:07 pm »
I've seen it done two ways. Both ways require baking the block to cook the oils out of it. Then while warm you can stick weld with a nickle rod or you can furnace braze weld it. Then after wards you'll have to have the bottom of it machined flat. If you can find a block from a jd with a wide base a cub pan will bolt to it and you don't have to machine or weld it. Just cut the ears off it.
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #196 on: May 21, 2011, 09:03:15 pm »
Just make an adapter plate out of steel or aluminum to mount it in your chassis and use your existing pan...

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #197 on: May 21, 2011, 11:14:33 pm »
The wide base is too "wide" to fit in my narrow frame cub... by a couple inches..



I heated them up to burn the oil out, and welded the slots full...



Then I cut the flanges off and ground 'er smooth should be good to go...



Holes are there, just need to tap them for the pan bolts
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #198 on: May 23, 2011, 05:49:03 pm »
Good news in all this is the tech and test pull was rained out Saturday...so they're doing it again This Weekend...!! More good news, found a new(different) machine shop and talked to them saturday, dropped off block this morning and they said I can have it tomorrow...and crank and rings showed up today...so I may have it running in a day or two...

Bad news is...it's my wifes birthday on saturday, so...decisions, decisions.... (I wonder if she'll miss me..?)



Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline THawley08

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Re: Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #199 on: May 23, 2011, 05:56:44 pm »
Take her along.

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Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #200 on: May 23, 2011, 07:50:54 pm »
I wish you the best with that Randy. Its a new sport to you maybe she will take interest and want to go watch.
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #201 on: May 23, 2011, 08:16:28 pm »
Well, she was gonna go last weekend, but this weekend she wants to get the garden in...

I did the rototilling Sunday so she should be happy and busy for the most of the day when I'm at the pull, long as I come home at a reasonable hour and I can take her out to supper all should be well...
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline FlatheadPuller

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #202 on: May 23, 2011, 09:38:19 pm »
Randy did chuck give any info on what he has tested that crank in. I thought that he had said he has a big bore 50.5 engine with that stock stroke forged crank in it.
Dennis Bazzett
Grandville Michigan

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #203 on: May 24, 2011, 07:59:00 am »
We didn't talk alot about the crank, more interested in what hapened to the old motor and how we could avoid that again...
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Burton for Certain

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #204 on: May 24, 2011, 08:22:04 am »
I'm pretty sure knowing Chuck and having used his engines and him personally building ours a few years ago that he would never use a forged crank in a 50.5.  The odds are too great for it breaking on a national level.
Drew Burton #19 FXS/FXT
Midwest Super Cub Racing

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Offline Big daddy

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #205 on: May 27, 2011, 12:31:01 pm »
I just got back on here after a few weeks away, Really sorry to hear about your crank. Stock cranks will start breaking around 30-35hp, 30lb/ft torque. Quicker if there was a defect in the casting or previous stressing was too great. You are definately moving in the right direction with the Vogel forged crank for reliability and cost effectiveness. If you do weld up the block, here is what I have learned. 1:) hot tank the block first, then pre heat the entire block to 450 F. localized heating will/can cause stress after the welding process is over. For what you are wanting to do I would recomend brazing, you are after more of sealing up than taking stress in that area. DO NOT USE Nickel or stainless steel, it will fail and cause a weak zone all along the edge of the weld with this grade of cast iron, these are not high quality nodular iron blocks. If welding the ports for a massive build up I use cast iron, yes the old cast iron melting/welding process, any thing else I use brazing, do a good pre heat with the entire block, heat the area really strong and move out some just prior to brazing then use PLENTY of flux. The iron will accept the brass if properly done right more like capillary action. You can see the pores of the metal open up then thats the good time to start adding your brass.
  Again, sorry about your mis-fortune with this, if there is anything I can do to help you just let me know or someone else know. This is a great site with a lot of good people willing to share and to help out!!

Good luck, Bruce
Bruce Litton

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #206 on: May 30, 2011, 07:48:17 pm »
What should I be running for valve lash...?

I didn't get specs with the cam...lakota steel cam

I'm running .010"
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Big daddy

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #207 on: May 31, 2011, 02:06:13 pm »
With brand new valves and seats with stainless valves I run 0.012" on intake and 0.014" on exhause. after they have had runs on them I will tighten them up to 0.010" intake and 0.012" exhaust.
Bruce Litton

Offline Squidd

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #208 on: May 31, 2011, 02:20:07 pm »
OK so I'm in the ball park there..

I set my timing at 30* when I left home, but it was 35* when I checked it after my run...

Would being over on timing "lug" my motor down on a pull, ? I didn't hear a pinging detonation when it ran...I just want to eliminate that from the equation before I invest in new gears...
Randy Stys
"Pull My Finger"
 63 Cub Cadet S/A

Offline Burton for Certain

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Re: K341 Pulling Build
« Reply #209 on: May 31, 2011, 03:06:30 pm »
You wont get your max rpms at 35* usually. 31/32* will usually get u max rpms. It drops off pretty quick after that. You can drop down to 28* in the torque band. But only a dyno will give u true numbers
Drew Burton #19 FXS/FXT
Midwest Super Cub Racing

Nichols Performance Inc. For the tractor pulling
"Bad Company" PS/SS
"Triple Play" Open Super Stock Diesel

Small Engines Of Seymour High Performance Camshafts (Greg Hackman) 8125225577