Author Topic: NEWBIE..FIRST BUILD HELP NEEDED!!!!  (Read 8212 times)

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Offline Tom Fox

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NEWBIE..FIRST BUILD HELP NEEDED!!!!
« on: October 15, 2006, 07:22:08 am »
I'm ready to start tearing into my firt build!!! I got my hands on a running 1986ish Craftspman II 14HP twin Cylinder mower for free!!! mower is 100% complete and original (I even think the oil is 1986 vintage!). Runs good and does not smoke!!

So that is going to be the foundation of my build. I will build it to the rules of USLMRA PREPARED C/P class. I see the rules are pretty straight forward but leave many questions unanswered.

Lets start with a simple question and I will continue with more:

First off.....Being that this is my first racer (lawn mower that is) is the first thing to do is just strip this thing down to nothing and build up from there?
Tom Fox       
Brookfield, CT

Offline mowdak1

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« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2006, 08:16:55 am »
Yep!

See the... G-Team Chassis Slideshows that'll give you some idea of where you need to go with things.

Offline Tom Fox

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« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2006, 08:39:43 am »
Great, that was what I figured...but as always I ask first!

SECOND QUESTION:

What can be just thrown away? Can I scrap all the deck adjustment stuff?
Tom Fox       
Brookfield, CT

Offline mowdak1

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« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2006, 09:15:25 am »
Deck adjustment stuff... yes.

Deck itself... no.

Deck is required on USLMRA build. Most typically chop the deck removing the middle of it, and use the ends to mount outside the running boards to build to proper specs on width.

If you plan on using transaxle as final drive, the spindles on the blades can be, and sometimes are, used as a jackshaft to attain the proper height for the drive belt. In moving the transaxle up in the frame, to lower the frame to the ground, the belt from the engine to the transaxle no longer lines up, and you have to have an offset to move the belt up to height of the input shaft on the transaxle. Thus drive belt from motor to bottom of jackshaft, drive belt from top of jackshaft to input on transaxle.

Unless I'm mistaken however, that machine is going to have a Foote transaxle, which is less than desirable for racing application, they simply don't stand up in competition use. Thus you'll want to look into a different transaxle or go to a live axle set up as pictured in the G-Team Slideshow. You'll find a good bit of info on transaxles and transmissions here http://www.heymow.com/viewtopic.php?t=697 , including pictures and a few identifying characteristics. Likewise there are links there to sites that you'll find helpful in locating parts for each.

There are some additional resource links on the G-Sources page at G-Team Racing also.

Offline Tom Fox

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« Reply #4 on: October 15, 2006, 03:29:29 pm »
My transaxle is the FOOTE type and I do recall reading on this forum that they are not the ones to use.  (guess I'll clean it up and put it on EBAY!)
What is the best gearbox to use?  I will end up putting a live axle in this machine. Is a live axle set-up legal for USLMRA? I've downloaded the 2007 rules but they are a little on the "not so detailed" side!
Tom Fox       
Brookfield, CT

Offline mowdak1

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« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2006, 03:34:24 pm »
Live axle is legal... if you're going that route best bet is to try and find a Peerless 700 and rebuild it for racing. More on that here http://www.heymow.com/viewtopic.php?t=192

You'll also need to get some measurements on the position of the axle before removing it. Live axle must be located in the same place; wheelbase must remain the same per USLMRA specs.

Offline Tom Fox

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« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2006, 03:53:43 pm »
EXCELLENT! Live axle it will be!!!! And now the search for a peerless 700!

What are you all using for a fuel tank?
Tom Fox       
Brookfield, CT

Offline mowdak1

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« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2006, 04:09:48 pm »
Peerless 700... try E-Bay, search for "lawn mower transmission"

They'll go anywhere from $30 - $130/plus shipping. Most seem to be going in the $50 - $75 range lately. During race season when they're getting blown up they'll go higher. If you have a local lawn mower repair shop that has a few old mowers laying around, you might be able to find them cheaper there. Typically find them in older mowers  (rear engine type they're pretty common with exception to the snappers) and some lawn mower repairmen don't think they're worth a whole lot. That or you may, as I did, strike up a deal with the repairman to put his name on your mower and get a sweet deal!! http://www.heymow.com/viewtopic.php?t=1412 As in $30 per mower complete, as my first sponsor! Told him what they were worth, he didn't care, just wanted his name on the mower!! Only wanted $20, but I felt guilty!! We're talking three useable chassis, two 12 hp blocks, a Peerless 500, 600, and 700 for $150 and his name on the mowers.


Gas Tank... drop the donmownator a line at G-Team, I think he may have a gas tank on hand down there, if not he can certainly get you one in. All contact info is found on the Contact page.

Offline mowdak1

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« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2006, 04:12:14 pm »
Did I see someplace that you are in Minnesota Tom? Was wondering if you found the Minnesota Lawn Mower Racing Association website yet?

Offline Tom Fox

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« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2006, 07:12:37 pm »
Quote from: "mowdak1"
Did I see someplace that you are in Minnesota Tom? Was wondering if you found the Minnesota Lawn Mower Racing Association website yet?


Not me from Minnestoa.......I'm from South Western Connecticut right near the New York State Border.


Is it allowed in USLMRA to modify the hood? The reason I ask is that it seems like I could section the hood a good 4-5" to give the mower a little more racey look.

And another one....... The seat area. Does it have to remain at standard factory height? I was thinking about recessing the seat area to help lower the center of gravity.
Tom Fox       
Brookfield, CT

Offline Squidd

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« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2006, 07:28:43 pm »
I highly recommend downloading a set of the 2007 rules before building...

A lot of these areas are covered in there...

You cannot be "sectioning" the hood, but can move the seat... but not below the top of fenders...
Randy Stys
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Offline Tom Fox

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« Reply #11 on: October 15, 2006, 08:13:12 pm »
Quote from: "Squidd"
I highly recommend downloading a set of the 2007 rules before building...

A lot of these areas are covered in there...

You cannot be "sectioning" the hood, but can move the seat... but not below the top of fenders...


Thanks!

I do have the 2007 rules and don't recall anything about modding the the front sheetmetal, but I have may overlooked it.

I do recall reading that you can just slightly move the rear fenders for some extra room.

I see that the seat location needs to stay in original location, but not any lower than the top of the fenders.  Is this measurement taken from the highest point of the base of the seat ( where your butt is parked) or is this from the highest part of the entire seat?
Tom Fox       
Brookfield, CT

Offline Squidd

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« Reply #12 on: October 15, 2006, 08:30:06 pm »
Base of seat
Randy Stys
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Offline mowdak1

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« Reply #13 on: October 15, 2006, 09:58:41 pm »
Quote from: "MOWMAN RACER"

Not me from Minnestoa.......I'm from South Western Connecticut right near the New York State Border.


My mistake... too many folks signing up of late, can't keep track of them all! Don't call Lee if that's the case, he's too far from home to offer much help!

Quote from: "MOWMAN RACER"

And another one....... The seat area. Does it have to remain at standard factory height? I was thinking about recessing the seat area to help lower the center of gravity.


Basically, you can remove that big C shaped spring from beneath your seat and bolt it directly to where the base of that spring used to mount on the chassis, is about it.

As for sheet metal... they don't want to see any sheet metal chopped!

Quote from: "USLMRA Rulebook"
C) PREPARED: Class designation: A/P, S/P, C/P and B/P. These mowers are as delivered from the factory except for the modifications listed below.


There are NO provisions for modification of sheet metal listed below that. Not always so much what's said therein, as it is what's not said!

Offline birdman_express

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« Reply #14 on: October 15, 2006, 10:14:05 pm »
Quote
My mistake... too many folks signing up of late, can't keep track of them all!




Might be easier if they put atleast a state they are from.
Marc Baker

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