Topic: Thinking of getting into it...

[FlatheadPuller]

Those gears will work randy. I wouldnt be afraid of them. The only thing you'll have to do is get the 4 speed spacer set, you have to remove reverse idler and cut the boss out of the trans. Once you get the gears and shafts setup you just align the aftermarket forks up with a good neutral gate. lock them down and go.

[Squidd]

I think I'm gonna get the video from MWCS...

[FlatheadPuller]

Hows the trans coming Randy?

[Squidd]

Not yet... I bought a hardened top shaft for it the other day and missed on some aftermarket forks..so still in the market...

Once I get the parts together I'll pull 'er down and do it over..

[Squidd]

Pulled driveshaft and squeezed spring to 4 1/2" ...it was at 5 1/2" from stock pin placement that tightened the clutch up dramaticly will see how it does next week when I pull the 1,200# class again..

Also bolted 80# below axle so that leaves me about 20# moveable for 950 class but more options (front to rear) for 1050 class... for 1,200# I just have to bulk up with whatever I can slap on there..

Bean bags, change in my pocket, etc...

Also picked up a pair of 2X10" tires/wheels for the front, which will bring it up a little, still leaving plenty of rake, but hopeing for more "balance" down the track...

[Burton for Certain]

How much do you weigh? I weigh 175 and in the 1050# class on my tractor I run about 60 to 70# on the belly no matter what. We put our tractors on scales and me moving from back of the seat to the front of the seat I added 18# to the front just by moving my butt. Just some food for thought. Generally unless its sand outside I wont run less than 50# on the nose. The tires we run are Nichols Pulling Edge and very very large diameter lawntecs.

[Squidd]

Tractor weighs 600, I weigh 250  so with 80 on the axle, I have 20 to play with in 950 class and 120 to play with in 1050...

I can load 190 total on the belly and nose, + 80 on axle+250 for me +600 on the tractor and I'm still 80# short for 1,200 class...

I'm making up some lead weight "bean bags" I can stuff under my seat for 40# or so I just need to work in another "temporary" 40# or so to make that class.. thinking something I can "clamp" on the weight bar under the tractor/or pull bar forward and mount weight up front as needed..

So far, other than a little wheelie at the line when I was "dumping the clutch", the tractor has been running with it's nose planted down the track...I'm hoping with the added weight to the axle and the taller front tires, I can get it to float the front a bit

[Squidd]

Lead weight bags wedge and wrap around seat post securing themselves against fenders and are legal in the club that I need them to make weight (1200#)

3 X 25# plates welded to a 3/8" plate mount add 80# below and slightly forward of the C/L of the rear axle...



Still need another 40# or so to make weight

[cubcadet70]

Bolt some on the wheely bars. As close as you can to the hitch. If it's legal. Or put some more lead weight bags between the frame and transmission near the hitch of ya know what I mean. I done that before...

[philr85]

you could go out to KFC with george they would help make weight! lol i couldnt resist saying it kfc has good chicken though!

[Squidd]

When I started this project  I weighed 240... now 250 so I'm catching up with George and the KFC traction control...

Course he is shorter than me....

Bolt some on the wheely bars. As close as you can to the hitch. If it's legal. Or put some more lead weight bags between the frame and transmission near the hitch of ya know what I mean. I done that before...

I have seen that at the pulls a row of 5#ers on the wheelie wheel axle shaft, kinda looks like a roller

Might help bring the front up as well...

[Squidd]

OK I think I have it...

Added another 40# under the belly + the 40 in the bags and 80 under the axle with the 1030# I had with the belly bar and front rack full should put me at 1190...which is a lot closer to 1200 than last time I pulled with those guys... (130# light)

[Squidd]

2x10s came in and I mounted them.. Raises front about 1 1/2"

Still has plenty of rake, (maybe too much??) but looks good from here.. We'll see if it helps with balance...



Also picked up a 4 puck clutch... won't have time to put it in before the pull this weekend, but that's OK,  I want to see what difference I can feel now that I tightened the spring up an inch to 4 1/2" preload..

Disc has a flat side and a "cupped" side.. when I do install, which goes forward (or toward "fixed" plate...) ? Sounds like I need to drill a new driveshaft as well (compared to fiber disc)

[Squidd]

Definetly need the clutch...even with the spring compressed to 4 1/2" I still had unwanted slippage off the line on the first run,, on the second run it slipped on the line and then again at the end of pull

Made weight, 1198#, and still had tires turning at the end so I went about as far as I could on first run..93' gave me a 4th out of 9 again, with 96', 98' and 101' being the top 3.. But at least I'm right up there with them.. If I can loose the slippage off the line I may have a chance to finish in the money..





Second run was much worse, didn't get up to speed on the line (launched at 6800) clutch slipped off line and never really grabbed, was smoking at the end of run.. 76' gave me a 7th with 104' for 1st.



At the end you can see the wheels stopped before I pushed the clutch in... that can't be good...

[Squidd]

I'd like to use what I have and upgrade a piece at a time, but I don't want to be chasing ghosts or creating my own problems, so will the 4 puck clutch (pictured above) work with my machined stock plates and red spring...? or is this a good time to jump up to the yellow spring...? or just get the whole assembly new and sell my parts..?