Topic: Thinking of getting into it...

[chuckm]

Ya, I agree daddy it had a generator starter set up that did both charge your bat. and start your engine.
chuckm

[FlatheadPuller]

I would build the k-341 Randy. But if so desired a 12,14,16 hp kohler all the parts interchange except the piston and head. To make it easy on your self though use a starter on the engine. You can build it for a starter cart but i personally think they are a pain. 16hp kohler with a long rod, short piston, a good .340 grind S/A cam. Vogel has some really good grinds. 25lb ring gear flywheel with a recast head from vogel you will have a good running machine. You can use a good billet head from Vogel if the rules allow it.

[Squidd]

I'll post the rules here (for the class I'm aiming for) for the Wisconsin GT Pullers and The Gopher State GT Pullers...Any of you guys know those clubs...?

 Stock Altered Gopher State GT Pullers: http://www.gsgtp.com/GSGTP%20Rulebook.htm#4

Light Pro Mod- Wisconsin GT Pullers: http://www.wgtpinc.org/rules.htm

Looks like I'll persue a buildable K341 16 hp ...

[FlatheadPuller]

With both those rule lists you could build an NQS stock altered tractor and be legal in both classes. The only difference I see that will be a HP advantage/disadvantage is the carb rule in the light pro mod rules of a 1.2 versus the gopherstate rules of a 1.0 carb. There is quite a difference. Go for a good running nqs 16hp and pull in both classes with a 1.0 carb.

[Big daddy]

I agree about the carb issue. If you stay with the 1.0 carb they you can run both those classes and NQS S/A and be legal. Spending the money for the 1.2 boat carb for one class would be hard to justify.

[Squidd]

Cool, that is kind of the plan, to build a machine that will "competitively" fit in several organizations with minimal or no changes between runs. That should give me the most opportunity to pull and best bang for the buck.

[Big daddy]

Are you going to put a steel crank in your motor?

[FlatheadPuller]

A steel crank in an altered is a very wise insurance policy. At least one of Vogels new forged cranks. There easier on the pocket book. Altereds get beat hard out of the hole and down the track. Hold it wide open until it won't rev anymore and start letting the clutch out. 25-30lbs of flywheel. Its rough on a cast crank.

[Squidd]

That's kind of what I'm heading towards..

Seems no one wants to ship a complete motor, but I can buy bare and short blocks that are shipable...

Gonna up grade crank, rod and cam, and probably piston, so I 'm thinking I might as well start with a bare block and build from there..?

[FlatheadPuller]

Just remember to shop around Randy. You cannot go wrong with anything Chuck Vogel sells. I run his cams as do ALOT of other people. Personally his prices are better then most as well. He is a good guy to talk to as well. Another place I have delt with alot is Skip at Mid-Atlantic Performance. He has real good prices as well.

In our local stuff I have never seen a stock block break so I can't help in that department on when it needs to be upgraded. Bruce would have a better idea on what a stock block can take. I have seen cranks break though. A S/A recast block will put a serious dent in the wallet.

[Big daddy]

You can use a Kohler block and it will handle a S/A class just fine. I would still use a block tie down just to be sure. I read the rules for the NQS S/A a few years back and when Julian came out with his S/A block the rules more or less said one cannot have any visible welding on the outside around the port, but low and behold the Julian S/A block is beefed up in those areas. I didn't care too much for that rule/part arrangement. Kohler K series blocks to port them correctly and to make them live you will have to weld/build up at least the top part of the flange between the port face and the head/deck area. If you don't sooner or later it will break or crack.As far as cams go I agree about using Chuck Vogel's cams. They always seem to have a better torque band for the classes that need them. Anything with a stock stroke needs as much torque as you can throw at it.

[coolcooper8]

Shouldent need electric start on a pulling tractor anyways, loose a bit of RPMs just turnin the belt and starter(dont need to run lights or anyting else on a pulling tractor). Just get a rope start pully and pull start it. If its like my Briggs, it should only take 4 pulls at the most to start and thats after sittin in the grage this whole winter. Just my $0.2\

Patrick Shimer

[Big daddy]

If you cam this motor properly you will be using a steel cam that probably wont have a compression release, without that you wont pull start one of these engines. I agree electric start is added weight you dont need. We put a pulley on the pto end and use a start cart. I know it can be un handy as heck but with my fat rear in the seat I cant afford the weight.

[Squidd]

I'lll have to read thru the rules again, I thought I read they had to have a "self contained" starting sysytem....?

Maybe that was just in stock class.. I'll have to dig a little more..

[FlatheadPuller]

Randy I have a fellow puller who has a Vogel starter bracket and toyota starter. They are light wieght gear reducted starters. It will crank anything you can build. I can give you his number If you would like. He also has some 1.0 carbs. He has an add on GT pulling classifieds. His name is Don.